ANST - Need some costuming advice
AuroraeB
AuroraeB at aol.com
Tue Apr 28 23:05:20 PDT 1998
Greetings.......
I have been doing costuming and mundane fashion design for going on 10 years.
But, I have yet to make a researched SCA re-creation garment for competition
purposes. I would like to try my hand at researching and building a
reproduction garment.
I have found paintings from the period of the dress I want to make. I also
have woodcuts from a period source as well.
The problems I am having so far are:
Materials: What is acceptable substitution for "period" fabrics? The garment
is a "court"-type dress and was made from silken velvets and brocades.
Obviously, it is not expected that I hunt down replicas in both fiber content
and pattern. But, what are the expected limits of substitution?
Construction: What type of construction techniques are acceptable? Obviously
I do not intend to hand-stitch this garment. Should I stick to straight
stitch? Or utilize some of the cool stitches for reinforcement of my seams
like overlocking? What to do about unraveling fabric? Pink it? Serge it?
Zig-zag it? Bind it?
Infrastructure: What materials and techniques should I use for linings,
bonings, etc. to make the garment hang and fit properly? Even with proper
corsetry, the garment still needs a canvas or twill lining for shape. Are
steel bonings preferred?
Closures: This garment laces up. Can I reinforce the lacings with grommets?
Do they need to be covered with stitching? I have tried to make corset/bodice
lacings without grommets before, and even with things like twill tape and
heavy stitching, they still tear and rip. And, what practical things can I
substitute? Maybe a panel allowing some ease in lacing?
I guess, I need to know the practical techniques for garment re-creation in
the SCA. This is going to be both a show and wearable piece. So, good, sound
construction is essential. I need tips on how to get both practical and
period techniques.
Does anybody have a guideline list or other source for costuming specifics?
Does anybody have a list of definite "no-no's"? How about a basic list of
requirements for a good competition piece?
Thanks,
Tracy R.
(Aurorae B)
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