ANST - DPSCLU, local 153: Pavises, Pavises
Keith Hood
keith_dell at hotmail.com
Sat Nov 21 13:37:35 PST 1998
>
> A couple questions and some thoughts on the wide world of pavises.
If a
>pavise is struck by a ballista in combat it is destroyed, along w/
anyone
>behind it, correct?
>
Oh, yes. Or at least that was the convention used at the last Gulf War,
and it seems to be fairly common. There are some kingdoms where
ballista bolts are considered to have the same penetrating power as
regular arrows. In those areas a cloth pa6ise would be invulnerable,
but here they're considered shield and pavise splitters.
Anyway, the idea is just to come up with a way to make pavises that are
light, cheap, and easy to transport. You know, we could make these
things so they can be literally folded up to the size of a hat box. Put
some real cheap hinges in the frame members and rig some tie ropes to
literally tie them together for use.
>
>Sounds like you just wanted an excuse to shoot at
>something (what is it w/ siege engineers?). When you were a child did
you
>line up your toy soldiers, move ten feet away and lob rocks on them?
>
A. Maybe it's the experience in the Armor branch. Once you've played
with big guns you just don't want an average weapon anymore.
B. I preferred pea gravel because it's more like grapeshot. Got older
and graduated to building plastic tank models and shooting them with BB
guns or .22's.
Yes, I know this makes me sound like a pervert. No, I haven't done
anything like that since I left high school. Unless you count the Army.
:-)
Seriously, there was one post on the siege list about cloth for
pavises that raised some doubts about their solidity. I figured I'd
check it out and lay that question to rest.
>
>Seriously though, my pavise design is very similar to what you have
>described, but instead of using lap joints I use a butt joint with a
>"corner block" which is a triangular piece of 1/4' plywood about six
inches
>on the straight sides, glued and stapled (air guns work great here) to
the
>1x4's. My cloth of choice is muslin (cheap, neutral base, takes paint
well)
>, glued to the front and stapled to the back (it also helps to brush a
thin
>glue mixture on top of the muslin to really get it to "set"). My plans
call
>for a center brace that the upright supports and the handles are
attached
>to.
>I really like your idea of leaving the material slack to absorb the
blow,
>but it might make it hard to paint (but if it works better, screw the
paint
>job!). One possibility is painting the center section and then
attaching
>the material to the frame.
>I do not have a ballista to shoot at them, but I do have some
frustrated
>archer friends (and rocks....).
>How many battles will these be used in?
Cool. I'm not familiar with muslin; is it about the same weight as
trigger? As for how many battles, I can't say. I hadn't thought of
using them past the next Gulf War. It would be easier and maybe more
fun to have a cremation ceremony for stuff we don't want to carry back.
I'm glad other people are taking more serious interest in getting ready.
I want to really swamp the Trimarans next year, and considering that
we're likely to be badly outnumbered, we need all the force multiplier
equipment we can get. Good luck in your efforts. Build arrows and
other neat stuff. Kneecap Trimarans.
Tomonaga
--
A long bow and a strong bow,
And let the sky grow dark.
The nock to the cord, the shaft to the ear,
And a foreign king for a mark!
-- Stolen from "The Song of the Bosonian Archers" --
By Robert E. Howard, who should be
the patron saint of Ansteorra
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