ANST - Thigh High Boots ( a bit detailed)

Fopdejour1 at aol.com Fopdejour1 at aol.com
Wed Nov 17 22:56:49 PST 1999


OK... I wanna shot at this topic too, 

    I can unequivocally say that YES high boots (also called long boots and 
jack boots) are period...there is written records, pictures, and 
illuminations going back to the late 1400s, but those early "long boots" were 
not quite as well formed as the cavalier style I am sure you are thinking of. 
They almost, to me, resemble soled loose leather leggings...if you can 
picture that.  
   As the 16th century progressed boots began evolving towards the thigh high 
boots that we commonly see being worn in the SCA. There are records and pics 
of HVIII having "long boots," and Francis I as well.  There is a written 
description of Francis I at Field of the Cloth of Gold wearing white boots.  
These boots were almost exclusively worn for out of doors activities. The toe 
followed the mode of the time rounded or squared...and often these boots were 
slashed.
    These high formed jack boots (Perhaps called thusly because the leather 
had to be "jacked" or stretched)  or "botte a' genouillere" appeared in 
France during the latter part of the 1550's....Because men wore delicate silk 
hosen that would be ruined from the rough interior of the boot, there were 
devised linen boot stockings as protection.
    By the middle of the reign of Glorianna, long boots were very commonly 
worn, though more-so if a gentleman planned to go out of doors then stay 
inside.  These boots had straps that went from the top of the boot up inside 
his slops, canions, galligaskins, breeches etc. and tied into his waistband.  
This prevented them from falling, and a coordinated garter was tied around 
them to prevent slouching to finish off the look.   Phillip II of Spain is 
pictured in these sort of boots in portraits. 
These boots did not have high heels like we think of when we see cowboy 
boots. The exaggerated heels are much later...I think, perhaps post 1650s?
    Long boots could vary in length from right above the knee to all the way 
to the upper thigh of the wearer. 
    Wanna know something bizarre...Elizabeth herself owned a form of long 
boots, called buskins, which she wore when she rode.  I have pictures of a 
pair that she owned...and records of her hosiers making boot stockings for 
her to wear under her boots.  These buskins went to right above her 
knee....rather spiffy looking creations actually.

Books and sources:  I cite several here of differing levels of detail because 
I don't know to what extreme, if any, you are interested in going to.

Elizabethan Costuming for the Years 1550-1580  by Carolyn winters and Janet 
Savoy ISBN 0-9630220-0-8 (This is an excelent book for the person who would 
like to recreate the later period look but hasn't a clue how to start.)

Tudor Costume and Fashion by Herbert Norris ISBN 0-486-29845-0 (his line 
drawing reproductions are lousy in the sense of accuracy, but his research 
and text is sound)

The Public and Private Worlds of Elizabeth by Susan Watkins 0-500-01869-3 
(Invaluable book to anyone wishing to understand Elizabethan society.) 

Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd by Janet Arnold ISBN 0-901286-20-6  (The 
prize of all my costuming books)
    
http://ps.theatre.tulane.edu/Period.Styles/Costumes/images/Elizabethan.Men/CN3
3.jpg  ( portrait online of Phillip II in thigh high boots with the straps 
visable)
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