[Ansteorra] Applique

[prudencecurious at netscape.net]

The way most applique was done in period is cut out the piece to be appliqued to size and apply it to the ground cloth without turning under.  They sometimes used glue or beeswax to control the initial fraying of the edges.  They almost always (like 99.9999% of the time) put cording overtop the edges, which also controled fraying.  This method produces very little puckering, but also does not stand up to repeated machine washings.
 
Things that will help control the puckering, if you are doing modern applique.  
 
1) Make the ground cloth and decorative fabric as close in weight and material as possible - this reduces shrinkage differences and how the two fabric pull against each other.  
 
2) Watch the grain when cutting.  Fabric stretches more one direction that another (pull vertically, horizontally and both of the diagonals and see how it works).  If you cut a triangle, at least one side will be along the bias and have a very different stretch when sewing it to the ground cloth.
 
3) Make certain that the tension when sewing the ground cloth to the decorative fabric is consistant for both fabrics.  If one is stretched more than the other, puckering will occur.
 
4) Choose a fabric that doesn't slide.  The choice of fabric in applique can make all the difference.  Do not applique gauze.  Wool to wool, on the other hand, is wonderful (after making certain that both fabrics are completely shrunk).
 
Hope this helps,
 
Prudence the Curious
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