[Ansteorra] Sewing question while we are on the topic of authenticity

[Sunny Briscoe]

>
> >Okay, to insert a gusset, take a pencil and mark the seam lines on the
> gusset.  When inserting the gusset into the underarm seam, so only along the
> seam line, not past and into the seam allowances.  You want to keep the seam
> allowances free.
> >
> >
> I usually do ok with gussets, other than the occasional redo.  What is the
> importance of leaving the seam allowance free?


My issue with gussets always has to do with the seam allowances.  Whenever I
am having problems with them, if I just make sure the seam allowances (esp.
the bits in the corners) are free, it always lays better.

>To insert a gore, you will probably want the point of the gore to be a
> little higher than where you think.  My hips get very full very high up, so
> if I just insert the gore where they start to get full, it doesn't get full
> enough quickly enough.  Try a couple of inches higher.  I also mark the seam
> line of the gore, lay it on the floor, then lay the dress on top of it,
> lining up the cut edge of the slit with the marked seam line of the gore.
> Then I top stitch the edge of the dress to the seamline of the gore.  It's
> terribly mundane construction, but if you were to use a hand buttonhole,
> overcast, or embroidery stitch, it would be sturdy and look right as well.
> The advantange of this method is that you are not trying to turn seam
> allowances at the point, it's all completely flat.
> >
> >
> Not sure if I'm getting this or not.  Are you saying that you fold the
> seam allowance under on your gore and lay it on top of the fabric and then
> sew on top of the seam?  If so, that sounds interesting and would keep from
> weakening the fabric at the top of the V because it wouldn't be cut up to
> it.  With doing this, how do you handle the extra fabric from the seam
> allowance on the gore at the top of the V?


Nope.  No folding.  But, if you are doing it by hand, you can scootch a bit
of the upper fabric into a fold under so there are not any raw edges
showing, but in my experience this is nominal.  I think you've got it right
otherwise.

>There is some evidence, though I have not researched it much, that the tops
of the gores were inserted into a curve instead of a point (instead of
cutting a slash, cut a "U" out of the fabric.  For details, check out "Woven
Into the Earth"
>
>
I will remember to look for that.  I love how the V looks when it is
done well, just needing to learn how to do that.  Also on the topic of this,
how does one properly do the edges of the fabric at this V on fighting
tabards?

Okay, here I am lost.  You finish them the same way?  Do you just want to
know how to strengthen this a bit?  I would sew around the edge of the
gusset as well (so you get 2 rows of parallel stitching, one along the
garment slit edge, and one along the gusset edge).

Good Luck!

Elisabetta