[Ansteorra] Sewing question while we are on the topic of authenticity

[Susan]

Sunny Briscoe wrote:

>Okay, to insert a gusset, take a pencil and mark the seam lines on the
>gusset.  When inserting the gusset into the underarm seam, so only along the
>seam line, not past and into the seam allowances.  You want to keep the seam
>allowances free.
>  
>
I usually do ok with gussets, other than the occasional redo.  What is 
the importance of leaving the seam allowance free?

>To insert a gore, you will probably want the point of the gore to be a
>little higher than where you think.  My hips get very full very high up, so
>if I just insert the gore where they start to get full, it doesn't get full
>enough quickly enough.  Try a couple of inches higher.  I also mark the seam
>line of the gore, lay it on the floor, then lay the dress on top of it,
>lining up the cut edge of the slit with the marked seam line of the gore.
>Then I top stitch the edge of the dress to the seamline of the gore.  It's
>terribly mundane construction, but if you were to use a hand buttonhole,
>overcast, or embroidery stitch, it would be sturdy and look right as well.
>
>The advantange of this method is that you are not trying to turn seam
>allowances at the point, it's all completely flat.
>  
>
Not sure if I'm getting this or not.  Are you saying that you fold the 
seam allowance under on your gore and lay it on top of the fabric and 
then sew on top of the seam?  If so, that sounds interesting and would 
keep from weakening the fabric at the top of the V because it wouldn't 
be cut up to it.  With doing this, how do you handle the extra fabric 
from the seam allowance on the gore at the top of the V?

>There is some evidence, though I have not researched it much, that the tops
>of the gores were inserted into a curve instead of a point (instead of
>cutting a slash, cut a "U" out of the fabric.  For details, check out "Woven
>Into the Earth"
>  
>
I will remember to look for that.  I love how the V looks when it is 
done well, just needing to learn how to do that.  Also on the topic of 
this, how does one properly do the edges of the fabric at this V on 
fighting tabards?

>Please let me know if that's clear enough, I can try to do a drawing, but my
>computer drawing skills arent' that great.
>
>Elisabetta Morosini
>
I think I might have it, if my above assumptions are right.  The link in 
the other post really did help alot for the way I had been doing it.
Susan the Curious