[Ansteorra] Shield thickness

Mon Dec 15 12:32:07 PST 2008

Greetings,

I use a little of both...rawhide for the edging over 1/2" composite 
thickness (i.e., two 1/4" plywood pieces)...and the huge dog chews are a 
great source of rawhide--and sharpens your scissors when you cut it wet.

Also, I curve the shield when I'm laying up the two plywood 
thicknesses...curves help deflect the blows.

With respect to exterior, I prefer a layer of thin muslin rather than 
paper...overall, it's stronger and the glue sands to provide a great 
surface for painting, which you need to do to seal the Elmer's glue so it 
won't dissolve in the wet.

Regards,
Tadhg
...brick by brick

"Dave Wise" <wiselaw at comcast.net> 
Sent by: ansteorra-bounces at lists.ansteorra.org
12/15/2008 06:23 AM
Please respond to
"Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA, Inc." <ansteorra at lists.ansteorra.org>

To
<brandonsmcd at yahoo.com>, "Kingdom of Ansteorra - SCA,  Inc." 
<ansteorra at lists.ansteorra.org>
cc

Subject
Re: [Ansteorra] Shield thickness

Been using 2- 1/4" layers of plywood with rawhide edging and it has been
holding up very well.  On the plywood, if you look around for what is
usually sold as birch or cabinet grade the 3/16" is often as strong or
stronger than the cheaper 1/4" Home Depot special.  The use of the rawhide
has carried over from shields made for using the rebated steel swords and
has proven to work very well for rattan.  I'll cut strips about 3 1/2" 
wide
enough to go around the shield (which usually requires 2 strips, depending
on the size of the hide you cut it out of), then sew the ends together to
make a big band that is just a little tight to set on the edge.  The 
rawhide
stretches a bit when wet, which will cause it to cinch down when dry. I've
used both tacks to nail down the rawhide, as well as drilling a series of
small holes and stitching it on with the use of nylon thread (waxed to 
look
like linen).  Both methods can work well.  Just be sure to use long enough
tacks or they will back out a bit after awhile.  Fyi, some of the Viking
types have found large dog chew bones that they unravel as an alternate
source of rawhide.
Regards,
Alexis

The nice thing about paper is that it does not stretch. Hence when glued 
to
even a cheap piece of 1/4 in plywood the results are dramatic. As the wood
attempts to bend (read stretch) with a blow, the torsional strength of the
paper acts against the bend making the entire structure more rigid ,
therefore more durable. I made a kite with 1/4in CHEAP ply and 1 layer 
front
and back and it held for 4 or 5 long practices and did not give till Rikr
hit it repetitively with his Calontiri Great Sword. I think 2 laminated
layers of GOOD 1/4 in ply and 2 layers of paper front and back (wrapped 
over
the edges) would prob. have a long lifespan. You have to use Elmer's white
glue though, not wood glue on the paper. It does not crack, and bonds well
to both paper and wood ( this little tid-bit I picked up from engineers 
that
build replica WWI biplanes).

Lochlan

--- On Sun, 12/14/08, Baronman at aol.com <Baronman at aol.com> wrote:
From: Baronman at aol.com <Baronman at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [Ansteorra] Sheild thickness
To: ansteorra at lists.ansteorra.org
Date: Sunday, December 14, 2008, 11:25 PM

Interesting concept- how does it work?  I would think that the tensile
strength of paper wouldn't add much weight but also wouldn't add that
much to  the
overall strength.
Bors

In a message dated 12/14/2008 10:56:37 P.M. Central Standard Time,
brandonsmcd at yahoo.com writes:

You  could laminate it with 1 or 2 layers of butcher paper and Elmer's
white
glue  on both sides and make it quite  strong.

Lochlan

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