[Ansteorra] Tent ridge poles

[Haraldr Bassi]

Tent poles don't neede to be terribly expensive or complicated. Look for some high quality 
straight grain douglas fir 2x4 in a good lumber yard. To make a full 14' board will require two 
8' boards. If two 8' 2x4s are better priced and quality than a 16' 2x4 then get them. Usually 
the longer 2x4s are much better quality than the 8' "stud" grade and well worth the couple 
dollars extra. A pair of 10' boards will be fine as well, and give you much more 'spare' wood in 
case your cuts wander too far. As long as you end up with enough wood to make your span you will 
be fine. The joint doesn't need to be in the exact center.

You will need some basic tools to start, a hand saw and a drill w/bits. Using whatever method 
you need, create an angle "gauge" between 15 and 22 degrees or so (specific is not as important 
as ensuring the angle stays consistent). Use that gauge to cut the end of the 2x4 and mark an 
angle 8-12" from the cut end of the 2x4 in the opposite direction on the face (wide side). Using 
the saw, cut the 2x4 on the marked angle to one half of the depth of the 2x4. Then rip the 2x4 
in half vertically from the angle cut end to the marked 1/2 cut through angle. This will allow 
that piece to come out leaving a 8-12" half lap joint with angled ends in opposite directions. 
Kinda looks like this:
_________________________...
\||||||||||/
  \||||||||/
   -----------------------...

The vertical hashing represents where you cut the board in half vertically.

Now do the same type of thing to the second board (or other end of a 16' 2x4) remembering that 
this needs to be the mate of the piece you just made. Easiest is to use the cut end to layout 
the next piece so that the actual cuts you made are transferred.

When you are done, you will have two ends of a 2x4 board, each 1/2 of the thickness of the 2x4, 
with angles that fit to the angles on the other end of the half lap joint you are making. You 
might need to tune the pieces so they meet cleanly with no major gaps. The mutual angles, when 
coupled with a bolt or three, cause the board to lock itself into position. Any downward force 
is buttressed by the other half of the joint, making a very strong mechanical joint. But that is 
only effective when there are no major gaps.

Then simply drill some holes for 2 or 3  1/4"-3/8" carriage bolts, use some big fender washers 
and tighten the joint. It won't move. You will need to pack a pair of wrenches to setup your 
tent. Leave them in your tent setup kit so you never forget them.

As always, watch out for knots and other cracks or crappy wood. Selecting decent wood to begin 
with is good.

The wood will probably run about $10. The carriage bolts, maybe another dollar or so. Your time 
is your own, but you learn a new skill. Even if you need to purchase the tools, you are still 
better off financially as you end up having tools available for the next project.

I generally use 2x3 for my uprights when I can get it, 2x4 otherwise. For perimeter poles on my 
wall tent, I found some light weight cedar and ripped it down in half to make some nice light 
weight poles.

Ease the edges of the poles with a round over bit in a router, or a plane or use a heavy rasp 
and sand paper. You don't want sharp edges catching your canvas or your clothing.

Good luck and have fun...

Haraldr Bassi, Bjornsborg



Tina Michael wrote:
> Hello all,
> 
>   I am going to build a new pavillion and need some info on the best way to
> construct a ridge pole. Now, I have gone to Panther  Pavllions and priced
> their 14 ft pole and they want $116.00 ! Yikes! I know I want to make it in
> sections so it can be put together easily and taken apart for packing. Has
> anybody made their own ridge pole? What did you use for the pole? What about
> the sleeve? Since I am a lady alone it needs to be easy for me to do without
> a lot of help. Any ideas???
> 
> Tina
>