[Ansteorra] Suitable breathing armor

Wyllow MacMuireadhaigh wyllowmacm at netscape.net
Sat Jun 20 23:28:10 PDT 2009


In reference to dyed linens:
----
> I have found that color can also affect the strength of linen. I  
> think this
> would be due to acids used to set the color. In my experience blues  
> have had
> the most problems, followed by blacks. Of course, I have not tested  
> much
> purple, orange or charteuse. For strength on inner layers or lining  
> you
> might consider natural linen which is neither bleached nor dyed.  
> White is
> probably next in strength since it would have been bleached but not  
> dyed.
----
That is a strange observation... I would expect naturally-dyed blues  
to be the strongest, not the weakest, since indigo and woad use NO  
acids to set the color.  It is the only dye method that wraps the  
fiber, rather than bonding to it.  (Thus, your blue jeans fade over  
time.)  However, done poorly, the fiber could be damaged by the  
extreme alkalinity of the dyebath.

I started focusing my dyeing research on the problem of linen a few  
years ago.  Following are a few observations, simplified:
A mordant is an acidic bath to remove electrons from the fiber's  
structure, in order to allow the dye to bond.  Linen resists dyeing -  
so the mordanting must be very strong for a dark color, which could  
weaken the cloth.  The dye then can chemically bond to the cloth, by  
filling in those electron gaps.  The dye does not always fill the  
gaps left by a mordant, which might again weaken the cloth.  However,  
a good dyer would then "set" the color after the dyeing, by dipping  
it in an afterbath, to fill in any unattached electron gaps.

You might try strengthening new linen fabric by giving it a good soak  
in a salt bath.

Black is another exception, since it requires no dyes.  The most  
common black on linen is the tannin/iron sulphate combination - which  
I refer to as the "tea bags/rusty nails" recipe.  Rust, as every  
fighter is probably aware, is rather hard on fabric.  So,  it would  
logically be the weakest.

Of course, this is the historical method - modern petroleum-based  
dyes may affect the fabric differently.

Don Christian Dor, I am interested in your color tests and results,  
if you would be willing to share them with me in more detail off-line?

Offering this knowledge for the Dream of the fighters of Ansteorra,
H.L. Willoc mac Muiredaig
- aka "Willoc the Dyer from the Loch"




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