[Ansteorra] Suitable breathing armor
Wyllow MacMuireadhaigh
wyllowmacm at netscape.net
Sat Jun 20 23:28:10 PDT 2009
In reference to dyed linens:
----
> I have found that color can also affect the strength of linen. I
> think this
> would be due to acids used to set the color. In my experience blues
> have had
> the most problems, followed by blacks. Of course, I have not tested
> much
> purple, orange or charteuse. For strength on inner layers or lining
> you
> might consider natural linen which is neither bleached nor dyed.
> White is
> probably next in strength since it would have been bleached but not
> dyed.
----
That is a strange observation... I would expect naturally-dyed blues
to be the strongest, not the weakest, since indigo and woad use NO
acids to set the color. It is the only dye method that wraps the
fiber, rather than bonding to it. (Thus, your blue jeans fade over
time.) However, done poorly, the fiber could be damaged by the
extreme alkalinity of the dyebath.
I started focusing my dyeing research on the problem of linen a few
years ago. Following are a few observations, simplified:
A mordant is an acidic bath to remove electrons from the fiber's
structure, in order to allow the dye to bond. Linen resists dyeing -
so the mordanting must be very strong for a dark color, which could
weaken the cloth. The dye then can chemically bond to the cloth, by
filling in those electron gaps. The dye does not always fill the
gaps left by a mordant, which might again weaken the cloth. However,
a good dyer would then "set" the color after the dyeing, by dipping
it in an afterbath, to fill in any unattached electron gaps.
You might try strengthening new linen fabric by giving it a good soak
in a salt bath.
Black is another exception, since it requires no dyes. The most
common black on linen is the tannin/iron sulphate combination - which
I refer to as the "tea bags/rusty nails" recipe. Rust, as every
fighter is probably aware, is rather hard on fabric. So, it would
logically be the weakest.
Of course, this is the historical method - modern petroleum-based
dyes may affect the fabric differently.
Don Christian Dor, I am interested in your color tests and results,
if you would be willing to share them with me in more detail off-line?
Offering this knowledge for the Dream of the fighters of Ansteorra,
H.L. Willoc mac Muiredaig
- aka "Willoc the Dyer from the Loch"
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