[Ansteorra-archery] Greetings and website

Eadric Anstapa eadric at scabrewer.com
Fri Nov 22 09:55:05 PST 2002


The website looks good but I do have a few comments.

First, please don't recommend that people get longer string to lighten a
bow.  Usually bows are bought in 5# increments and if you buy a 35# bow the
chances of taking it down to 30# safely with a string is very slim and it is
not always safe.  The Inch-Pound rating of crossbows can be adjusted by
lengthening and shortening strings because sometimes a quarter-inch
difference is brace height is all it takes to bring you just under the 600
IP limit.  (right Pug?)

On UHMW Heads.  Try NOT to drill a 0.25" hole.  As you mentioned, no
affordable glue will adhere to UHMW so it needs to be fastened mechanically.
The recommendation from the guy who created and approved the design (Sir
Jon) was to drill a 15/16 hole.  You then drive the UHMW on with a dead-blow
hammer.  Once you do this it is almost impossible to get the UHMW off.

If you do drill a .25" hole then do use some glue.  I recommend a good gel
superglue (one that says it is designed for plastics).  While the glue
really wont adhere to the UHMW well, it will fill the gaps and provide a
snug fit.  If you can find  Loctite BlackMax 380 Super Glue it will actually
bond to UHMW reasonably well.  It is a mil-spec superglue that takes a long
time to dry but it is way strong.  However BlackMax costs about $5 a tube as
opposed to the $1 a tube for regular gel superglue.

For shafts.  We don't use just use hardwood rods.  In other words don't go
down to your local home improvement store and buy dowels.  Typical doweling
material is NOT allowed.  Buy arrow shafting.  The difference is that arrow
shafted is usually much better quality wit the grain running the length of
the shaft and is less prone to breaking and when it does break it breaks
more cleanly.  Still you will be much better served to make fiber glass
shafted arrows or bolts.  The fiberglass lasts forever and really isn't much
more expensive than wood.

I prefer and only recommend for Fiberglass shafts the Square-cut
Routed-Channel design from 160 PSI Siloflex both glued and then taped to the
shaft.  After inspecting god knows how many thousands of arrows at Gulf War
last year it became apparent to me (and many others)  that this was
currently the best and most secure design.   In addition to being quite
secure  they actually do seem to help and improve flight characteristics.
The extra weight and drag on the tail end helps balance the heavy blunt and
just makes them fly better.   APDs are pain (or can be) when using handbows
but for crossbows they are great. If suddenly tomorrow they stopped
requiring APDs I would still keeping putting them on my bolts because I
think they improve accuracy.

If you are using wooden shafts then the best choice are the jumbo golf
tubes.  Anyone using Golf Tube APDs should go see Michael of the Fray for a
class in making and attaching these APDs.  Michaels are by far the best
construction of any Golf Tube PAD I have seen anywhere.  He uses them on
both his wood and fiberglass shafts and they serve him well.   Golf Tube
APDs are good if done right.  Very few people do them right.  Michael stands
out as the person that does them best.


Lord Eadric Anstapa
Kingdom Archery Marshal, Ansteorra
eadric at scabrewer.com

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