[Ansteorra-archery] Greetings and website

[Sharon Palkowetz]

OK here is what i did. First, i simply posted the information from others,
bec i am not an archer, but i see how it read. SO i removed any opinions on
making stuff from the main page and copy/pasted all postings on the design
and assemblage to another linked page. I will update that as needed. That
was if you guys disagree i dont have to make the distinction, i'll let you
do that. ;)

Viv

----- Original Message -----
From: "Eadric Anstapa" <eadric at scabrewer.com>
To: <ansteorra-archery at ansteorra.org>
Sent: Friday, November 22, 2002 11:55 AM
Subject: Re: [Ansteorra-archery] Greetings and website


> Regarding
> http://www.polkawitch.com/stickjock/archerysca.asp
>
> The website looks good but I do have a few comments.
>
> First, please don't recommend that people get longer string to lighten a
> bow.  Usually bows are bought in 5# increments and if you buy a 35# bow
the
> chances of taking it down to 30# safely with a string is very slim and it
is
> not always safe.  The Inch-Pound rating of crossbows can be adjusted by
> lengthening and shortening strings because sometimes a quarter-inch
> difference is brace height is all it takes to bring you just under the 600
> IP limit.  (right Pug?)
>
> On UHMW Heads.  Try NOT to drill a 0.25" hole.  As you mentioned, no
> affordable glue will adhere to UHMW so it needs to be fastened
mechanically.
> The recommendation from the guy who created and approved the design (Sir
> Jon) was to drill a 15/16 hole.  You then drive the UHMW on with a
dead-blow
> hammer.  Once you do this it is almost impossible to get the UHMW off.
>
> If you do drill a .25" hole then do use some glue.  I recommend a good gel
> superglue (one that says it is designed for plastics).  While the glue
> really wont adhere to the UHMW well, it will fill the gaps and provide a
> snug fit.  If you can find  Loctite BlackMax 380 Super Glue it will
actually
> bond to UHMW reasonably well.  It is a mil-spec superglue that takes a
long
> time to dry but it is way strong.  However BlackMax costs about $5 a tube
as
> opposed to the $1 a tube for regular gel superglue.
>
> For shafts.  We don't use just use hardwood rods.  In other words don't go
> down to your local home improvement store and buy dowels.  Typical
doweling
> material is NOT allowed.  Buy arrow shafting.  The difference is that
arrow
> shafted is usually much better quality wit the grain running the length of
> the shaft and is less prone to breaking and when it does break it breaks
> more cleanly.  Still you will be much better served to make fiber glass
> shafted arrows or bolts.  The fiberglass lasts forever and really isn't
much
> more expensive than wood.
>
> I prefer and only recommend for Fiberglass shafts the Square-cut
> Routed-Channel design from 160 PSI Siloflex both glued and then taped to
the
> shaft.  After inspecting god knows how many thousands of arrows at Gulf
War
> last year it became apparent to me (and many others)  that this was
> currently the best and most secure design.   In addition to being quite
> secure  they actually do seem to help and improve flight characteristics.
> The extra weight and drag on the tail end helps balance the heavy blunt
and
> just makes them fly better.   APDs are pain (or can be) when using
handbows
> but for crossbows they are great. If suddenly tomorrow they stopped
> requiring APDs I would still keeping putting them on my bolts because I
> think they improve accuracy.
>
> If you are using wooden shafts then the best choice are the jumbo golf
> tubes.  Anyone using Golf Tube APDs should go see Michael of the Fray for
a
> class in making and attaching these APDs.  Michaels are by far the best
> construction of any Golf Tube PAD I have seen anywhere.  He uses them on
> both his wood and fiberglass shafts and they serve him well.   Golf Tube
> APDs are good if done right.  Very few people do them right.  Michael
stands
> out as the person that does them best.
>
> Regards,
>
> Lord Eadric Anstapa
> Kingdom Archery Marshal, Ansteorra
> eadric at scabrewer.com
>
>
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