[Ansteorra-archery] I swear it never ends - questions

[David Ruff]

I made myself a tillering block. Best few bucks i have ever spent. Now from the books and things i am reading the bent bow is placed on the block and drawn to the target weight. In this case 35# at 28"
 
I want to over shoot the bow weight target by a few pounds. Now in tillering i am seeing, i am supposed the bow look like a piece of a perfect circle, so i block it, draw it, mark the dead areas, remove it and tiller the limbs. Flex it afew times and put it back on the block running it back up to target weight and hopefully more inches in draw back. 
 
I keep doing this till i hit my target weight and target draw - correct? What i am seeing on the cedar/oak backed stave i am playing with is starting to resemble a really nice arc when drawn and i have it to 24" at 36lbs. VERY unlike the first bow i did afew days ago.
 
Next question
 
 
Will this same method work using bone, wood and sinew composite on staves that are say 30" long and drawing 6 to 8"? I am attempting to make my first period composite prod using hide glue etc. Target weight is not important to me on this one - 60 to 100# will do nicely. But the idea of a period only shoot using pre steel method has awoken a monster in me i can't shake :) I am soon to learn the art of making steel lathe's. I want to explore making a pre 1320's crossbow with a horn/sinew/wood prod pulling 200 to 400lb. I have never seen one - i want to build, see, hold, and fire one.  
 
 
>From what i see the layup is the same as the modern composites i make in my press however there is NO written information on using period composite materials for xbows other then pictures, actual examples and writings of what was used in the prod. So i can only assume doing it like the horse bows is near correct - as far as the lay up is concerned.... 
 
 
Any thoughts, or referrals to doc's on this from anyone?
 
 
 
Ulrich
 
 

		
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