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Didn't they use coiled sisal rope in period? Or is that a Hollywood
interpretation?<br>
<br>
Those paper-coil dart boards work on a principle of the tip jamming
between turns, rather than the friction of cutting into a solid
material. That approach doesn't necessarily result in the target being
damaged, and it could potentially reduce the ratio of withdrawal force
to the initial resistance to penetration. That is, stiffer materials
may provide better resistance to prevent losing the bolt in the target,
but then grip the bolt too tightly to remove. Lubricating the shaft
would make it penetrate further too since the side friction becomes
lower, however, the tip cutting resistance is an additional resistance
which will not be reduced.<br>
<br>
Need burlap-covered ballistics gelatin. Fun idea, but gelatin only
works over a limited temperature range, eventually dries out, and is
damaged by impacts. So it's not a high-reuse target.<br>
<br>
Oznog<br>
<br>
Chuck Kaun wrote:
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very careful with the foam. Some of those foams are tip keepers. The
only thing more annoying than your fletchings getting tore up a bit is
losing half your tips in the target. As of this point, the best targets
I have ever shot at which do the least amount of damage to equipment
are the round grass butts like the ones Northkeep has. They last a
decent amount of time and arent really all that expensive if the cost
is split up amongst several people. It is true that they are bulky and
heavy and can be weather dependant but are less so than the hay bales
we often use (and lose crossbow bolts in)<br>
<br>
Karl Thorgeirsson<br>
<br>
> Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 11:54:48 -0600<br>
> From: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:eadric@scabrewer.com">eadric@scabrewer.com</a><br>
> To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:ansteorra-archery@lists.ansteorra.org">ansteorra-archery@lists.ansteorra.org</a><br>
> Subject: Re: [Ansteorra-archery] Target questions<br>
> <br>
> It will work. I would get the 6# density 2" thick and would
probably <br>
> setup multiple layers depending on how well it stopped the
arrows/bolts.<br>
> <br>
> Cover it with burlap. Just go to the local Fabrics store and but
some <br>
> burlap. Sew some bags a lace the targets securely into the burlap.
Not <br>
> only does this make them look better but it keeps the sunlight off
them <br>
> and prolongs their life by preventing UV exposure.<br>
> <br>
> Remember that for crossbow shooters you are talking about needing
to <br>
> stop the arrows within about 8 inches or so to keep from stripping
the <br>
> fletchings from the quarrels. There is nothing more frustrating
that <br>
> going to a tournament only to discover that that they have
inadequate <br>
> target butts that are tearing up your equipment. So when making
your <br>
> decisions please get someone with a target weight crossbow to try
things <br>
> out.<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> -EA<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> Doug Copley wrote:<br>
> > I have heard people say that a good target is a high density <br>
> > polyethylene. What is "high density"?<br>
> ><br>
> > I have found sheets that are:<br>
> ><br>
> > 2" thick by 4' x 9' that is 1.7# density for $65<br>
> > 1" thick by 4.5' x 9' that is 4# density for $100<br>
> > 1 1/2' thick 4.5' x 9' that is 4# density for $150<br>
> > 2" thick 4' x '9 that is 6# density for $216<br>
> ><br>
> > Since we do not shoot compound bows we have slower fps on our
arrows <br>
> > but they weigh more so they are harder to stop. What density
and what <br>
> > thickness is needed to stop arrows that we shoot?<br>
> ><br>
> > all of these are local pickup for me in Oklahoma City so no
shipping.<br>
> ><br>
> > Does anyone have a better supply source for this type of foam?<br>
> ><br>
> > YIS,<br>
> > Vincenti<br>
> > _______________________________________________<br>
> > Ansteorra-archery mailing list<br>
> > <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:Ansteorra-archery@lists.ansteorra.org">Ansteorra-archery@lists.ansteorra.org</a><br>
> >
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> <br>
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