HNW - Hardanger and Reticello lace

Jacquie Samples jacquie-samples at
Tue Oct 7 09:32:25 PDT 1997

One more note about the "The Schole-house for the Needle."  I have
interpreted the patterns that look like black and white grids in my
photocopy as reticello lace, a technique which I have picked up over the
last several years.  This technique also depends upon (like Hardanger)
areas of needle-weaving meant to hold the piece together, interspersed with
areas cut away which are then filled back in with various kinds of stitches.  
I am not sure which happens first Hardanger, can someone clear this up for
Do you embroider around the area to be cut first, and then to the cutting?
(as in Reticello lace)  Or do you cut away the area, then do the satin
stitching?  I've seen some Hardanger works in progress, but haven't really
attempted any.
Thanks for the help.

At 11:43 AM 10/7/97 -0400, Melinda Sherbring wrote:
>Hello again!
>I thank you all for the citations for whitework  (I took that GCC a couple
>years ago -- fascinating stuff, and very different from counted thread).  
>I can date white on white embroidery to pre-1600 (quite a few paintings show
>it was done in at least England and Italy on chemise/smock/shirt/partlet
>collars).  And my next needle technique to learn is likely to be Reticella
>lace, which appears on some of the most exquisite collars, and even the
>Dorothy Wadham shirt, which survives from ca. 1600.   But none of these is
>really like Hardanger, with its squares of cutaway fabric in a ground that is
>essentially plain, with areas of satin stitch. 
>Thank you to Jacquie Samples for pointing me to 
>"The Schole-house of the Needle" .  I have that book
>but did not think of looking for Hardanger-like patterns there.  I found a
>page of what appear to be basically satin stitch designs, which of course
is a part
>of hardanger and Ukranian Whitework.  There are also some squares in the
>middle of some of the satin stitch areas, which could be interpreted as
>places to cut threads.  This is quite encouraging.  I suppose it is too much
>to hope that there might be, in some other pattern book, or sampler, the
>dove's eyes and woven bars and such.... 
>Any other recommendations for sources greatfully accepted. Any notions on
>specific ethnic embroideries (medieval, renaissance, or modern) that look
>like hardanger also greatly enjoyed. 
>Thanks so far!
>Melinda Sherbring
>(Eowyn Amberdrake)


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