HNW - Charles' shirt
dickeney at access.digex.net
Thu Apr 16 20:57:00 PDT 1998
Since you have more detailed information than is in Rutt: another area of
uncertainty occurred to me. The photograph in Mary Thomas's book of
knitting patterns, which IIRC is the same as the one in Rutt, doesn't show
the sleeve where it attaches to the armscye, because the sleeves are
The tiny corner at the top of the sleeve seems to indicate that the sleeve
was knitted in the brocade pattern right to the edge where it is sewn in.
But it doesn't show whether the body had false 'guards' knitted in around
the armscye, as was done on some other silk tunics of similar date.
The sleeve is shaped by increases along the bottom of the sleeve,
apparently in line with the side of the tunic, where the seam would be if
the tunic hadn't been knitted in the round. Is all the shaping taken care
of that way, or is there a diamond shape knitted in at the bottom of the
armscye, the way there is in guernseys?
If we're considering replicas, we may as well try to be as detailed as
On Thu, 16 Apr 1998, Deborah Pulliam wrote:
> The blue silk shirt/vest (so called because it's the British term for what
> Americans call undershirts) was knit in the round up to the armscye, and
> then knitted back and forth up to the shoulders, the placket fronts being
> knit separately (but not cut). The buttonhole side does have silk tape or
> fabric as a backing, but the neck edge does not; it's simply knitted for
> several rows and then cast off. Although Rutt says the shoulders are
> grafted, he's using it in the sense that the stitches from front and back
> were worked together (as opposed to cast off and then sewn together.)
> Kitchener stitch was *not* used.
> The buttons are basketstitch woven over wooden bases; there are 13
> buttonholes (maybe had something to do with when/why Charles wore it?!?)
To be removed from the Historic Needlework mailing list, please send a
message to Majordomo at Ansteorra.ORG with the message body of "unsubscribe
More information about the H-needlework