HNW - Re: Stumpwork

Chris Laning claning at
Fri Sep 4 23:32:35 PDT 1998

>In a message dated 9/2/98 9:48:58 AM CDT, Connie.Bunny at
><< I'm trying to find some sources for stumpwork for a friend in
> Calontir. Most sources rush to say it isn't period, but there  are
> several brief mentions of it in Tudor times plus it seems that if you
> look for it , you find it under other names in Germany and so forth.  >>

Another example is a chasuble in Chur with a vertical row of saints,
angels, human figures etc. up the back. This embroidery appears to be
"alpenla:ndisch um 1500." I *think* the photo, which shows the whole back
of the chasuble, is in color, but I only have a photocopy so I can't be
sure. I found it in  Brigitta Schmedding's _Mittelalterliche Textilien in
Kirchen und Klo:stern der Schweiz_ (1978, another Abegg Foundation book),
where it's catalog #93. The embroidery is referred to as "Reliefstickerei"
(relief embroidery). Incidentally, the fabric of the chasuble itself is
fascinating -- it's violet with gold embroidery and has bands of Arabic
inscriptions woven into it.

Schmedding also discusses a "Burgundian" chasuble from Einsiedlen, which is
pictured in color in _Textile Conservation and Research_ by Mechtild
Flury-Lemberg (yet another Abegg Foundation book). It's made of red
brocaded velvet with an applied cross shape containing various figures. The
embroidery is described as "Raised embroidery: satin stitch, gold in
couching technique, silk, blue, green, yellow, red; gold thread, filament
around yellow silk core; silver thread, filament around white silk core,
bound by red silk in diamond pattern." This is catalog #32 and is the same
date as the above; it's also in Schmedding, but I didn't photocopy it.

In the same book is a cope with a floral pattern (Cat. #37), with strips of
raised embroidery down the front, in  "silk embroidery on linen ground in
split stitch and French knots, sometimes covered with a lattice of silk and
gold thread; gold embroidery in couching technique and silk floss in
various colors." This embroidery is dated to the 16th century. Irritatingly
for our purposes, the only photos (though they are in color) are from a
distance; the closeups are all of the ground fabrics, which are the focus
of this book. To be fair, they is worthy of all the attention; the main
fabric is probably Chinese, very rare, and dates from *at the latest* 1300.
The description comments that the quality of the raised embroidery isn't
very good!

O   Chris Laning
|   <claning at>
+    Davis, California


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