HNW - HNW: arnold bibliography

Deborah Pulliam pulliam at acadia.net
Tue Jun 8 06:27:17 PDT 1999


It goes without saying, of course, that this is provided for your personal
use, and is not for publication without prior permission.

*****
List of Publications: Janet Arnold FSA

BOOKS
[Patterns of Fashion 1] (cut and construction of women's clothing,
1660-1860) --Wace 1964, Macmillan 1972. Revised metric edition 1977.

[Patterns of Fashion 2] (cut and construction of women's clothing,
1860-1940) --Wace 1966, Macmillan 1972.

[Patterns of Fashion: the cut and construction of clothes for men and women
1560-1620] -- Macmillan 1985. Revised edition 1986.

[Perukes and Periwigs] -- HMSO, 1970. A booklet on the development of wig
styles in paintings at the National Portrait Gallery, London.

[A Handbook of Costume] -- Macmillan 1973. Reprinted 1978. A guide to the
primary sources for costume study.

['Lost from Her Majesty's Back']-- The Costume Society, 1980. Items of
clothing and jewels lost or given away by Queen Elizabeth I between 1561
and 1583, entered in one of the day books kept for the records of the
Wardrobe of Robes.

[Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlock'd] -- W S Maney and Son Ltd, Leeds 1988.
A study of the clothes worn by Queen Elizabeth I, basd on portraits,
warrants for the Wardrobe of Ribes, and other material. Inluces full
transcription of the inventories of the Wardrobe of Robes prepared in 1600,
preserved in the British Library, Public Records Office, London, and the
Folger Shakespeare Library, Washington Dc.


PUBLISHED CONFERENCE PAPERS AND CONTRIBUTIONS TO EXHIBIT CATALOGS

[Costume] -- a general costume bibliography, with Pegaret Anthony. Victoria
and Albert in association with the Costume Society, 1966. Revised 1974,
reprinted 1977.

Two patterns of early 18 century mantuas -- for the London Museum catalog,
[Women's Costume 1600 - 1750], HMSO 1969.

Papers in the proceedings of the annual Costume Society conference:
        "The Cut and Construction of Women's Dress, 1890- 1914", in [La
Belle Epoque], 1967, pp 21-36.
        "The Cut and Construction of Women's Dress, 1860- 1890", in [High
Victorian], 1968, pp 21 - 29.
        "The Cut and Construction of Women's Dress, 1830- 1860", in [Early
Victorian], 1969, pp 12 - 19.
        "The Clasical Influence on the Cut, Construction, and Decoration of
Women's Dress, 1785 - 1820", in [The So     Called Age of Elegance], 1970,
pp 17 - 23.

"The Dressmaker's Craft", in [Strata of Society], 1973, pp 29 - 40.

"Sweet England's Jewels" and catalog entries for portraits in [Princely
Magnificence], catalog of the exhibition of European Renaissance Court
Jewellry, Victoria and Albert Museum, 1980, pp 31 - 40, 99 - 112.

Research and illustrations contributed to "Il Reauro degli abiti funebri
dei Medici: Studi preliminari", an exhibition at the Palazzo Pitti,
February 1985. Centro Di, Florence, 1985.

"Preliminary investigation into the Medici Graves Clothes", in [Il Costume
nell'eta'del Pinascimento], Edifir, Florence, 1988, pp 149 - 157.

"The Cut and Consturction of Women's Clothes in the Eighteenth Century",
with three patterns, in [Revolution in Fashion 1715 - 1815], catalog of the
exhibition at Kyoto Costume Institute, Japan, 1989, pp 126 - 134.

Editor for English edition of Katia Johansen, [Royal Gowns], exhibition
catalog, Rosenborg Palace, Copenhagen, 1990.

"Smocks, shirts, falling bands and mantuas", a paper on evidence of early
ready-to-wear clothing, [Per Una Storia della Moda Pronta: problemi e
richerche] Atti del V Convegno Internazionale del CISST, Milano, 26-28
Febbrario 1990, Florence, 1991, pp 17 - 27.

"Queen Elizabeth's Jewels" in [The International Silver and Jewellry Fair
and Seminar], London 1991, pp 35 - 36.

"Clothes from the Point of View of the Historian" in [Bevarandets
Hemlighet: The Secret of Preservation Revealed], catalog of the exhibition
at the Livurstkammaren, Stockholm, 1991, pp 41 - 44.

"Cut and Construction", in [Moda all Coret edi Medici: gli abiti restaurati
di Copsimo, Eleonora e Don Garzia], catalog of the exhibition at the Pitti
Palace, Centro Di, Florence, 1993, pp 49 - 73.

Catalog entries on wigs and items of dress in [The Funeral Effigies of
Westminster Abbey], Woodbridge, 1994.

"Liveries at the Court of Queen Elizabeth I" in [Le Trame della Moda], atti
del Seminario Internazionale svoltosi a Urbino il 7-8 Ottobre 1992 promosso
dal Centro Italiano per lo studio della Storio del Tessuto e dal Centro
Studi sulle Societa d'antico Regime Europa delle Corti, Bulzoni, Milan,
1995, pp 253 - 274.

PERIODICAL ARTICLES
"A silver tissue dress c 1660, from the Museum of Costume, Bath" in
[Costume].(the journal of the Costume Society), London (first series), #2,
1966.

"An evening dress of 1893, from the London Museum" in [Costume], London,
first series, #3, 1966.

"A wedding dress worn by Princess Sophia Magdalena in 1766" in {Costume],
London, new series, #1, 1967, pp 17 - 21.

"A caftan said to have been worn by Selim I (1512 - 20)" in [Costume],
London,#2, 1968, pp 49 - 52.

"A pink silk domino from the Victoria and Albert Museum, c. 1760 - 70" in
[Costume], London, #3, 1969, pp 31 - 34.

"A mantua c. 1708 - 09, from Clive House Musuem, Shrewsbury" in [Costume],
London, #4, 1970, pp 26 - 31.

"A study of three jerkins" in [Costume], London, #5, 1971, pp 36 - 45.

"The exhibition of costumes for the BBC/TV series 'The Six Wives of Henry
VIII' and 'Elizabeth R', in [MAG], No. 10, Transactions of the Museum
Assistants' Group for 1971, pp 7 - 14.

"A court mantua of c. 1740" in [Costume], London,#6, 1972, pp 48 - 52.

"A court mantua of c. 1760 - 65" in [Costume], London, #7, 1973, pp7 - 14.

"Sir Richard Cotton's suit" in [The Burlington Magazine], CXV, no. 842, May
1973, pp 326 - 329.

"Three examples of late sixteenth and early seventeenth century neckwear",
in [Waffen-und Kostumkunde], Munich, vol. 15, part 2, 1973, pp 109 - 124.

"Reminiscences of a Court Dressmaker" in [Costume], London, #8, 1974, pp 22
- - 25.

"Decorative features: pinking, snipping and slashing" in [Costume], London,
#9, 1975, pp 22 - 26.

"An Edinburgh tailor's story" in [Costume], London, #10, 1976, pp 74 - 85.

"Fashions in Miniature" in [Costume], London, #11, 1977, pp 45 - 55.

"Elizabethan and Jacobean smocks and shirts" in [Waffen-und Kostumkunde],
Munich, vol. 19, part 2, 1977, pp 89 - 110.

"Nils Sture's suit", [Costume], London, #12, 1978, pp 13 - 26.

"The 'Coronation' portrait of Queen Elizabeth I", [The Burlington
Magazine], CXX, no. 908, November 1978, pp 727 - 241.

"Two Early Seventeenth Century Fencing Doublets" in [Waffen-und
Kostumkunde], Munich, vol. 21, part 2, 1979, pp 107 - 120.

"Jane Lambarde's Mantle" in [Costume],. London, #14, 1980, pp 56 - 72.

"A Sack Gown from the Haddington Collection at the National Museum of
Antiquities of Scotland, Edinburgh" in [Studies in Conservation], no. 25,
1980, pp 19 - 27.

"An Early Seventeenth Century Woman's Riding Doublet or Cassock" in
[Waffen-und Kostumkunde], Munich, vol. 22, part 2, 1980, pp 113  - 128.

"A Woman's Doublet of about 1585" in [Waffen-und Kostumkunde], Munich, vol.
23, part 2, 1981, pp 132 - 142.

"The 'Picture' of Elizabeth I when Princess" in [The Burlington Magazine],
CXXIII, no. 938, May 1981, pp 303 - 304.

"A Labour'd Hoop to ornament the Fair" in [The Journal of the International
Association of Costume], Tokyo, #2, 1985, pp 6 - 12.

"A court mantua from the Haddington Collection in the Royal Museum of
Scotland, Ediburgh, in [Waffen-und Kostumkunde], Munich, vol. 28, part 1,
1986, pp 37 - 48.

"The Golden Gown of Queen Margareta in Uppsala Cathedral", long review with
evidence for redating from 1363 to c. 1469, in [Waffen-und Kostumkunde],
Munich, vol. 29, part 2, 1986, pp 148 - 151.

"The 'Armada' portraits of Queen Elizabeth I" in [Apollo], Vol. CXXIX, no.
326 (new series), April 1989, pp 242 - 246.

"A study of the clothes and regalia depicted on the tomb of Queen Elizabeth
I in Westminister Abbey" in [The Journal of the International Association
of Costume], Tokyo, #7, 1990,. pp 11 - 28.

"Dolphins and Flaming Hearts" in [Haandorbejdets Fremme: The Danish
Handcraft Guild], vol. 57, no. 2, 1991, pp 31 - 33.

"The Kirtle, or Surcoat, and Mantle of the Most Noble Order of the Garter
worn by Christian IV, King of Denmark and Norway" in [The Antiquaries
Journal], vol. 72, 1992, pp141 - 167.

"The Jupon, or coat-armor, of the Black Prince in Canterbury Cathedral" in
[Church Monuments], the Journal of the Church Monument Society, VIII, 1993,
pp 12 - 24.

"Costumes for masques and other entertainments c. 1500 - 1640" in
[Historical Dance], the journal of the Dolmetsch Historical Dance Society,
3, no. 2, 1993, pp 3 - 20.

"A Prelate's robe for the Most Noble Order of the Garter worn by the Right
Reverend Sir Jonathan Trelawney 3rd Bart., Lord Bishop of Winchester, in
1707" in [Costume], London, #28, 1994, pp 22 - 36.

"An innovative method for mounting the sixteenth century doublet and
trunkhose worn by Don Garzia de'Medici" with Mary Westerman Bulgarella, in
[Costume], London, #30, 1996, pp 47 - 55.

"The Comte de Toulouse's 'Months of Lucas' Tapestries: sixteenth century
designs with eighteenth century additions" with Edith Standen, in [The
Metropolitan Museum Journal], #31, 1996, pp 59 - 79.

"The Graves Clothes of Ferdinand I of Hapsburg, 1564" in [Costume in
Context], UKIC, Textile Section, postprints of the forum held at the
Guildhall, Bath, 11 March 1996, pp 10 - 11. Edited by Frances Lennard.


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