HNW - Or Nue is ... (as opposed to other gold techniques)

Kira Lathrop klathr1 at uic.edu
Tue Sep 7 12:20:39 PDT 1999


Or Nue uses gold thread as the ground for the embroidery.  The gold is laid 
(on linen or silk) in very even rows completely obscuring the ground fabric 
and the gold is couched in place (no discernable pattern is used in the 
couching).  Then colored threads are sewn over the gold to make a picture 
or to create shading -- sometimes obscuring the gold completely (in deep 
shadow areas) sometimes allowing the gold to peek through (by one, two, 
three or more thread widths) and sometimes using the gold as a strong 
highlight with just a bit of color sewn over it.  This technique takes a 
long time, but is very beautiful.  Even when the gold is obscured, it 
grants a light to the work which is unique. It is also not discussed that 
much, which makes this thread very exciting!

In general, the gold forms the highlights, gold and color form the midtones 
and color forms the shadow areas.

Kira (sca Constance)
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