[HNW] Re: History of Hardanger

Ruble Anita ruble1942 at yahoo.com
Fri Jan 25 12:22:06 PST 2002

Chris mentioned "...the West Kingdom Needleworkers Guild's list
of pre-1600 styles..." and Sarah mentioned "...the Lochac
Worshipful Company of Broderers equivalent list...". How could
I obtain a copy of the two lists?

Alienor of Southwark, Companions of Penelope, Citadel of the
Southern Pass, Outlands

--- Sarah Randles <s-randles at adfa.edu.au> wrote:
> Chris said:
> >It seems to me that these are the things that make Hardanger a
> >specific style, and this identifiable style is what needlework
> >researchers can't seem to find (as far as I know) before sometime in
> >the 17th century.
> >
> >But I don't think you can really say that you have documented
> >Hardanger embroidery to before 1600 if you can _only_ document the
> >individual components, and _not_ the combination or the distinctive
> >motifs.
> >
> >I'm mentioning this because we recently had this discussion in the
> >West Kingdom Needleworkers Guild (SCA) and decided to drop Hardanger
> >from our Guild's list of pre-1600 styles.
> I haven't really been following this thread, but I'd like to agree with
> Chris on this one - I removed hardanger from the list of styles for the
> Lochac Worshipful Company of Broderers (WCOB) (our equivalent of the
> Needleworkers' Guild) for exactly the same reasons.
> This highlights the issue of the difference between style and technique, an
> important one for embroidery researchers to understand.  Most, if not all
> of the *techniques* of hardanger embroidery can be found in European
> embroidery before 1600, but the *style* is something quite different, and
> to the extent of my research, it cannot.  Style is not just how you do
> something, but how you put it together.  Style encompasses such aspects as
> colour, scale, materials and, of course, techniques.  It's much harder to
> get across than technique, but if you're interested in creating period
> style embroideries, it's at least as important.
> The WCOB lists of styles and techniques rely on the members to do the work
> - our charter states (I'm paraphrasing, I don't have it here) that members
> can submit their research on any style or technique to the masters of the
> guild in an attempt to have that style or technique included on the list.
> So far, no-one has presented us with convincing evidence for pre-1600
> Hardanger.
> Having said that, I have seen a couple of examples of cut work on 16th c.
> collars which do look rather like Hardanger, but they're not clear enough
> for me to want to use them as irrefutable evidence.
> Sarah
> ******************************************************************************
> Sarah Randles
> s.randles at adfa.edu.au
> Australian National Dictionary Centre
> Australian National University
> ACT 0200
> Phone: (02) 6125 0476 Fax: (02) 6125 0475
> (On Thursdays and Fridays, I am at the School of English, ADFA on Ph: (02)
> 6268 8842, same e-mail address.)
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Anita Ruble
aka Alienor

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