[HNW] Extant Examples of German Embroidery

Lynn Downward lynndownward at gmail.com
Fri Apr 15 11:51:59 PDT 2005

Alex, thank you for saying that using regular sewing thread is possible. 

For all the blackwork I've produced in the last ten years _that will
be worn and washed_  I use buttonhole thread. It has a sheen to it,
it's a bit thicker than regular sewing thread, and I know it won't
shrink or bleed in the hot water I use to wash the shirts, chemises
and napkins. I think it looks just fine. And I'm one who works at
accuracy as much as possible in the big things; small details like
hand sewing seams and using materials about which I have to baby so it
doesn't bleed/shrink like silk or rayon thread or something, I don't
sweat. If it looks good from 12 inches, I'm happy.


On 4/15/05, Alex Doyle <garbaholic at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>   The first time there was some nameless thin cotton, some
> > #12 (?) perle cotton, and 7-count waste canvas.  The second time
> there was some shirt-weight linen > scraps (maybe 35 threads per inch),
> the same perle cotton, and no waste  canvas.  But whether I counted the
> threads or not, I couldn't get the ends of the individual stitches to
> line up.  This made what ought to have been be straight lines be all
> zig-zaggy and irregular instead.
> >
> >
> A rule that seems to work for me is that the thread to embroider with
> should be about the thickness of the thread the cloth is woven with, so
> it would be my guess a lot of your problem here is that the perle
> cotton is too heavy for your cloth.  To save cost I'd get either some
> regular DMC floss, or even regular sewing thread and try a sample, that
> may take care of your problem.
> I've seen projects worked with two strands of black silk floss and that
> was too much, so I'd try a thinner floss to embroider with.
> alex
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