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<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Last night at Camp DaKaNi,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial> I held a class on Period Fabrics, which
covered the basics of period fabrics as well as sources where they could be
purchased. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Here is the handout. It doesn't cover everything we
discussed and is very basic, but it should provide plenty of helpful
info.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>NOTE: The link to burnley and trowbridge was
mispelled on the original handout. I have corrected it here. My thanks to Vallie
for pointing that out.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Some of the things that were mentioned at
class-</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Gabardine is a modern weave, but it approximates
lightweight period weaves so well that many reenactors consider it a viable wool
fabric for costuming, especially since it comes in more colors than many suit
weight wools.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Raw Silk, or Silk Noil, was generally not used for
garments. It did have a small market in Italy, but wasn't generally considered a
quality silk for tailoring.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Wool was the predominant fabric, even in warmer
climes, because it acts as a thermal insulator, keeping you warm in the cold and
cooler in the heat. Linen absorbs sweat and doesn't stick to the skin, so
it acts as an air conditioner but can dehydrate the wearer if wool is not
worn on the outside to control evaporation. Lightweight wools and slashed wool
flannel in Ansteorran summers will help keep you more comfortable. Those of you
who may have watched "Colonial House" will recall the young man chopping wood in
wool flannel on a hot day, and how surprised he was when he discovered he wasn't
dying from the heat.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>So for most periods, use lightweight
wools.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>For later periods needing slashing, use wool
flannel.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>All periods use wool flannel in the colder months,
and sometimes in the warmer months, especially for hosen.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Be careful with silk garments - silk is an
effective heat trap and can be extremely uncomfortable in the
summer.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>If you wear all linen, stay thoroughly hydrated and
be prepared to put wool on later in the day to preserve moisture.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>Those who have wool allergies may want to get
tested for their specific allergens, as many tropical weight wools do not have
the same chemical treatements. Many who report wool allergies have no problems
wearing modern business suits and dresses, which are usually made of suit
weight or tropical weight wool. Quality wool flannels feel like cotton flannels
and not the scratchy army blankets we tend to think of.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=2 face=Arial>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">TYPES OF
FABRIC:<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office"
/><o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT
face="Times New Roman">WOOL<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">Woolens
– made with shorter fibers, tends to have a nap or a fuzzier surface, best for
late-period slashing, good for outerwear, cloaks, dresses, tunics. Look for wool
flannel.<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">Worsteds
– a more finished wool made with longer fibers. Do not slash, tends to fray.
Good for summer weight garments. Tropical weight and gabardine are good
options.<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT
face="Times New Roman">LINEN<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">Buy by
the ounce of the fabric if possible.<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">3oz =
shirts and chemises / 5oz = lining, lightweight garments / 7oz and up(canvas) =
outerwear, fighting garb, banners and flags.<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT
face="Times New Roman">SILK<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">Stick
with twill satins, habotai and charmeuse for most periods, taffeta becomes an
option in the 14<SUP>th</SUP> century. Can be slashed on the bias, better for
pinking (small slashes and holes). Generally used for trim. Can be warm as a
garment. Cotton velveteen is the best substitute for medieval silk
velvet.<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT
face="Times New Roman">BLENDS<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">Fustian
– a linen-cotton blend used in the 15<SUP>th</SUP> century
on.<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT
face="Times New Roman">Linsey-woolsey – a linen-wool blend that appears every
now and then after the 13<SUP>th</SUP> century.<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT
face="Times New Roman">CLEANING.<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">Wash
‘against the skin’ linens on cold and hang dry. Most wools will not need
washing, but wash on cold with baby shampoo. Many stains can be brushed off when
dry. Allow outer garments to air out. Hand wash silks in tepid water and soft
soaps, rinse thoroughly, air dry.<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT
face="Times New Roman">THREAD<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">Try to
match thread material to garment, i.e., linen thread for linen, wool thread for
wool, silk for silk, etc. Some wool/silk threads are available, as are wool
tapestry threads and wool embroidery threads called crewel. Waxing threads is a
vital step to handsewing with linen, and can help with the others as
well.<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT
face="Times New Roman">SOURCES<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><A
href="http://www.bblackandsons.com/"><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT color=#800080
face="Times New Roman">www.bblackandsons.com</FONT></SPAN></A><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman"> (wool
flannel, gabardine, tropical weight wool, worsted
flannel)<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><A
href="http://www.fabric-store.com/"><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT
face="Times New Roman">www.fabric-store.com</FONT></SPAN></A><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman"> (linens
of all weights at the best prices ( also linen-cotton blends, not true fustian,
but a decent liner))<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><A
href="http://www.goldensilks.net/"><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT
face="Times New Roman">www.goldensilks.net</FONT></SPAN></A><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman"> (good
silk selection at reasonable prices)<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><A
href="http://www.periodfabric.com/"><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT
face="Times New Roman">www.periodfabric.com</FONT></SPAN></A><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman"> (wool,
linen, fustians)<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><A
href="http://www.carolinacalicoes.com/"><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT
face="Times New Roman">www.carolinacalicoes.com</FONT></SPAN></A><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">
(fustians and linsey-woolsey)<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><A
href="http://www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/"><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT
face="Times New Roman">www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com</FONT></SPAN></A><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman"> (wools,
linens, silks)<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><A
href="http://www.renaissancefabrics.net/"><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT
face="Times New Roman">www.renaissancefabrics.net</FONT></SPAN></A><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman"> (wools,
linens, silks (especially taffeta))<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><A
href="http://www.woodedhamlet.com/"><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT
face="Times New Roman">www.woodedhamlet.com</FONT></SPAN></A><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman"> (tapes,
braids, cords and ribbon in linen, wool and silk)<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><A
href="http://www.threadneedlestreet.com/"><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT color=#800080
face="Times New Roman">www.threadneedlestreet.com</FONT></SPAN></A><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><FONT face="Times New Roman">
(threads of sorts, including linen, wool, silk/wool and
silk)<o:p></o:p></FONT></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><o:p><FONT
face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><o:p>~Finnacan</o:p></SPAN></P>
<P style="MARGIN: 12pt 0in 0pt" class=MsoNormal><SPAN
style="LINE-HEIGHT: 200%; FONT-SIZE: 10pt"><o:p><FONT
face="Times New Roman"> </FONT></o:p></SPAN></P></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>