[Northkeep] a teaser about Hawaii, surfing, rush and was Hi

Susan catmafia at swbell.net
Thu Dec 6 06:11:50 PST 2001

[ Picked text/plain from multipart/alternative ]

>Oh Damon.. that is a huge opening .. and I will resist.. I will... must go
>now so can resist
> > Welcome on board.  However, you might not use just the word "Hi" in the
> > subject line of any messages for a while.  Don't want people thinking
> > you're a worm do ya?
> >     Damon

Wow, that reminded me of the expression on Merrick's face when he would
tell me that it was the look of Merrick being good and not running with the
material taunting him to do what he did so well with it.  I really like
that when I make sure to point out to those around that it is the sound of
me being good when I hold all the questions in that are just dying to get
out there.  It isn't that the (whatever) is bad, but just that the
responces and reactions of those around would probably be counter to what
you were wanting and so you just hear the voices in  your head play out the
commentary while you just are and then choose another line of action.

Boy do I miss Merrick.  It was those conversations that we had where he had
many of those points of standing on something that it wouldn't jump into
the conversation that were so addictive.  Because he knew I loved to talk
to him, but like a 3 year old Peg foating on the ocean once the waves
dumped on me once, I was thrilled with the ride, when they dumped on me a
second time I was done and started to head in and on my way in I was
guarunteed to get overwhelmed and dashed to the sandy bottom and delivered
onto the beach with a great deal of force and I was REALLY done and then
she would go lay on a blanket in the shade and sleep while the rest of us
went back into the ocean to enjoy the rush of exciement that was in being
there.  It was when you could ride on top of those little waves and just
skidded across them onto the beach without ever having it dump you that was
the WOW that made the risk so worth it to go in accepting that the other
would probably happen.

Also, the further you went from shore the deeper of wave you could ride the
crest and falls of without getting dumped on, but it also meant the ride in
would be more intense but also if you just want out, you will get dumped on
alot more and the one description of getting dumped on that I like the
most, likened it to having an olympic sized swimming pull poored over your

The really big waves, the 40 and 50 foot walls of water were just awsome
and where they were on each island was at the foot of a Wiameah valley and
had a holy site at the bluff overlooking it.  I would just go and sit at
ours when the ocean was at it's most powerful and watch in awe as I could
hear, feel...sense nothing else but the roar of the ocean (my
meditation).  I would see in (shock, horror, envy, fear for...) the ones
who were compelled to go and ride these waves and know that they happily
accepted the posibility of death for the chance for the ride, WOW.  I just
soaked that in for hours when I had it available for that lesson means so
much to me and has guided my life in many ways.  I know I am the type that
only chooses as much (fear, danger, ride, wow, risk) as I am willing to
calculate and still be safe, because that sense of safty outways my need
for (excietment, adventure, thrill, abandonment).

Ok, I warned you all.  Hope you may have gotten something out of it either
life lesson or a history lesson about the Kapu and Taboo of ancient
(period, yeck I get sick of this term) Hawaii, or just a explaination of a
pretty day.  If you want to see it, seach for when they are running the
Tripple Crown of surfing for now is the time of year they run these three
across the north shore of Oahu and Haliewa and Sunset Beach (Bonsi
Pipeline) are two of the three.  I never could remember the other one,
don't think it was one of my 50 or so beaches I frequented across the North
Shore.  I am so glad I was able to be there and that place nurtured me.  If
anyone wants to see any of my memories or historical stuff from there, it
isn't stored too deeply and I LOVE that place and rarly get to visit the
history there.  If interested in looking online look for the Bishop Museum
and also Wieland Galleries.  His eyes were so awsome and I could gaze at
the works in his gallery for ages (one of the people I am so happy to have
just met) you also might want to look at pictures of the many Whaling Wall
murals he has painted, he is the one that did the one that was part of the
deal to let Kieko free (Free Willy).  The lessons I learned there are so
much a part of who I am, it is where I realized I was an adult and shaped
my life in so many ways,

told you all it was scary, so Ciana was that more or less scary than the

More information about the Northkeep mailing list