[Northkeep] Fabric gurus

[Jennifer Carlson]

Go ahead, but I'm positive there are much better sites on houppelandes out 
there, and I'm sure most SCA folk would allow you to post a link to them for 
the asking.  If you go to the SCA homepage, you can find links to some 
astounding costuming and accessories sites.

Talana

>From: "Zubeydah" <zubeydah at northkeep.org>
>Reply-To: The Barony of Northkeep <northkeep at ansteorra.org>
>To: "The Barony of Northkeep" <northkeep at ansteorra.org>
>Subject: Re: [Northkeep] Fabric gurus
>Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2004 07:52:12 -0600
>
>May I have your consent to add this post as a "q & a" in the Lore section 
>of my website?
>
>-Zubeydah
>
>PS: I was also hoping to post your retelling of Diarmuid's elevation...
>
>   ----- Original Message -----
>   From: Jennifer Carlson
>   To: northkeep at ansteorra.org
>   Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 2004 9:41 PM
>   Subject: RE: [Northkeep] Fabric gurus
>
>
>
>
>   Houppelandes were indeed made of heavy but soft stuff.  It has to be 
>soft to
>   have the right drape, and heavy enough not to look flimsy.  Think a 
>heavier
>   dress weight, or a trouser-weight.
>
>   Wool and silk are the fibers they used.  There are some modern cottons 
>that
>   have the right drape, if you'd rather use a modern material.  I have a
>   corduroy houppelande that has served me well for many a year.  A 
>houppelande
>   is the garment for showing off a cool brocade pattern, or yards of 
>velvet.
>   It has the virtue of looking good on ANY body type, since it is 
>essentially
>   fitted only at the neck and shoulders.  It's also extremely easy and 
>quick
>   to run one up.
>
>   There are tricks to getting the "right" drape in the period sense, but 
>an
>   A-line garment, cut as full as your fabric can manage, will do.  Be 
>warned -
>   the hems run from enormous to ridiculous.
>
>   There were a slew of different sleeve patterns used, though the 
>bell-cuffed
>   "angel wing" style was most common.  The cuffs provide a great 
>opportunity
>   for worked a dagged edge of scallops, points, oak leaves, or what have 
>you.
>   Mine has an arrowhead pattern.
>
>   Angel wing sleeves should be lined, usually in white, though other 
>colors
>   were used as well.  No bare arms, though - the houppelande was always 
>worn
>   with an under garment with fitted sleeves.  You can cheat and sew nice
>   fitted sleeves onto a t-shirt, if you want to reduce bulk.
>
>   Add a rich belt (worn at the waist or low on the hip for men, right 
>under
>   the bust for women)  and a good hat or headdress, and you're set for the
>   fifteenth century.
>
>
>   In servicio,
>
>   Talana
>
>
>   >From: "Graue, Chris" <Chris.Graue at benham.com>
>   >Reply-To: The Barony of Northkeep <northkeep at ansteorra.org>
>   >To: "The Barony of Northkeep" <northkeep at ansteorra.org>
>   >Subject: [Northkeep] Fabric gurus
>   >Date: Wed, 1 Dec 2004 10:27:20 -0600
>   >
>   >Is there a particular type of fabric that was generally used to make
>   >houplands? They seem sort of heavy, but soft... is that just what 
>people
>   >have chosen to make them out of or were they made from that type of
>   >fabric in period?
>   >
>   >Chris
>   >"I'm not lost, I'm EXPLORING!!!"
>   >
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