[Northkeep] Buying wools online

[Betsy Marshall]

Actually- I think Denver fabrics was bought bought by fashion fabric club-
they kept the DF page templates, but went to the FFC fabric choice display..

-----Original Message-----
From: northkeep-bounces+betsy=softwareinnovation.com at lists.ansteorra.org
[mailto:northkeep-bounces+betsy=softwareinnovation.com at lists.ansteorra.org]
On Behalf Of Jennifer Carlson
Sent: Sunday, July 26, 2009 2:24 PM
To: northkeep lists.ansteorra.org
Subject: [Northkeep] Buying wools online


Mistress Caitrin asked about wool fabric sources online.  Here are two I
have used, and been generally happy with.

 

The first is DENVER FABRICS - denverfabrics.com

The website has a nice page of descriptions of some of the more popular
kinds of wool fabrics, and the difference between a "woolen" and a "worsted"
wool fabric.  They have an entire section labelled "Italian,", which
includes wool/silk blends as well as wool solids.  Checking the prices on
the Italian wools and blends, you can tell the recession is global indeed,
and the prices are as good as I've ever seen.  Many $22.00/yd fabrics are on
sale for as low as $7.00/yd.

 

The other site is FASHION FABRICS - fashionfabrics.com

Under their Wool section, they have separate catagories for flannel,
gabardine, suiting, lightweight, and tropical wools.  Like Denver Fabrics,
they tell you what garments a particular fabric is suitable for, and what
other fibers are blended into it.  They too, have many fabrics deeply
discounted.

 

 

When looking through their offerings:

 

"Light weight," "tropical," "summer weight," and "suitings" are the key
words to look for.  Suitings for the most part will be lighter weight
fabrics than coat wools.  Exceptions will be novelty weaves like boucle.

 

Each fabric will list what kind of garments it is suitable for:

Wool suitable for coats will be heavy.

Wool suitable for coats and jackets, not as heavy as coat wool but probably
too much so for summer wear (though that is what Diarmaid's brown Venetians
are made of).

Wool suitable for jackets and slacks will be in the range of warm-weather
wools.

Wool suitable for jackets, slacks and dresses will be yet a bit lighter.

Wool suitable for blouses and shirts will be very light.

 

If you are in doubt whether a fabric is the right weight, you can often
order a swatch, or give them a call and let them know what you want to use
it for and see if they recommend it for that purpose.  If their customer
service is any good, they'll try to find out for you.

 

Some of the gabardine descriptions may specify "worsted gabardine," but
nearly all gabardines are worsteds, because the defining visual effect of
the twill weave of a gabardine relies on a smooth yarn, which woolen is not.

 

A note about wool flannel - it's not like cotton flannel, though made the
same way - the fabric is woven, usually with a twill or tabby weave, then
the surface is roughed up through a process called "teasing" to pull up
fiber ends into a fuzzy nap.  For wool flannel, this nap is then shaved
down, giving it a "sandy" texture.  For cotton flannel, it's left long, for
a "peach down" feeling.  Wool flannel is not necessarily a cold-weather
fabric.

 

 

Warning:  many wool fabrics are blended with 1% to 3% lycra (spandex).  This
helps the fabric keep its "heft" and if you machine wash it, the texture can
change completely.  This blend makes for fantastic woolen hose, like
Diarmaid's gold-colored ones, but it will not look like it did before you
washed it.  If it is a lycra blend and says "hand wash or dry clean only,"
follow the directions.

 

Many pure wools and woolens labelled "dry clean only" can be washed, and
some can be laundered without shrinking or felting.  The only way to know
for sure is to wash a piece and see what happens.  Usually what happens is
you will lose the smooth finish that the manufacturer put into the fabric by
heavy-roller pressing and/or the addition of sizing, and you may not be able
to get it back no matter how much you iron or starch the fabric afterwards.
It's not really possible to tell what will happen beforehand, but you are
less likely to have this problem with a worsted than with a woolen, and
woolens are far more likely to shrink when laundered.

 

Most wools, even woolens, can be safely washed by hand in cold water.  I can
provide instructions for anyone who's interested.

 

Of course, if you're wearing body linen (and you ARE wearing body linen,
right?) you may find you never have to wash your wools, as the shirt or
chemise captures all the body dirt and oils, and the linen (not cotton)
fibers get rid of the moisture before the soils can migrate through the
underclothes to deposit on the wool outer garments.  Diarmaid's gray
doublet-and-Venetians suit has been washed only once in fifteen years, and
you don't see me trying to stand always upwind of him, do you?  People need
frequent bathing, but a good airing out is usually the only cleaning wool
needs.  Wool stockings excepted, of course.

 

Before I end this, let me add that the manager of the Hancock's Fabrics in
the Farm at 51st and Sheridan uses her discretionary powers to order more
wools than is normally allotted for her store.  Last year I scored several
pieces of very good quality wool and woolens, including some wool flannels.
The autumn fabrics should be arriving any day now, so get on their coupon
mailing list, watch for sales, and strike when you find a good buy.  They
more we buy, the more they're likely to stock.

 

Hope this helps.

 

 

In servicio et humilitate,

 

 

Talana

 

 

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