[Periodencampments] Amazing stuff, ammunition bread--Ld. Skerri's reply, tent info for SCAdians

[Robert Stewart]

Hello, Denny.  I do not suppose you read the page about what this list is about?  This group is for members of the Kingdom of Ansteorra, Society for Creative Anachronism, towit you can read more information about us at sca.org.  This is not someplace for you to dump spam, followed by a bunch of useless garbage strung together, that does not constitute, even by the wildest stretch of the imagination, a sentence.  If, by chance you have something for sale, or have information, relating to 1600 A.D. or C.E. and earlier, then let us know.  Hoow much I pay for my home in amunition bread is not medieval, and will not help improve the appearance of my encampment, as in making it look more "period"; that being medieval.
   
  Now, for anyone left on the list, I say we start e-mailing these people back at their address and reporting them as spammers, if it is not too much trouble.
   
  On to Period Tents:
   
  I wanted to let people know something that I have noticed in several papers written by folks, and are available on the web, about how they sewed/had sewn (sp?) their pavilions.  These folks stated that they are not profesional tentmakers, and this is how they did it.  I thought I would write real quick as a profesionally trained textile technician (as in canvas and other heavy materials sewer) hoe best to do seams on pavilions, and why.  As I get mainly A-frame orders, I will use this as the primary example, with a wall example thrown in.
   
  for the main seams running from one side to the other, the up then down angle of the body of the A, sew the two pieces together with the outward facings lieing upon each other (face to face) and run your seam with one inch of hem left.  Also, you want to continiuosly have the bottom piece of fabric slightly visible.
   
  Now, unfold so that the outward side is facing you.  One side has to go under the arm of your machine, so take the right side and roll it up fairly tightly.  Smooth down the entire seam that now does not show thread.  Put it up to the machine for sewing, keeping in mind that you are going to run the arm barely off the top piece of fabric, causing the stitching to be pretty close to the edge.  When finished, do this again, but so as you are as far away as reasonably possible from the first "topstitch" seam without having to deal with worrying about running off on the underside of the seam, causing the two pieces of fabric to not be double-joined in a spot/large area/whatever.  It is perfectly acceptable to have a one and one half inch seam, instead of one inch.  Now, if you were to look at the back of the "topstitched" seam, you would only see one layer of fabric, hence last paragraph's statement about bottom piece visibility.  This seam is also used for roofs, walls, etc.
   
  Now, for the doors of the A-frame, we can use the same "topstitch", or what is called a "french fold stitch".  The reason that the "Topstitch" is better for pavilions is it is faster, uses 1/3 less thread, and is structurally superior to "french fold stitch".  This is a fact I have personally seen make a difference.  The doors of an A-frame are not a biggy, and the "french fold stitch" hides the edges of the fabric a little better, so I use it for VISIBLE seams on doors; usually.
   
  A "french fold stitch" is the atypical blue jeans one; it can be acomplished in several ways, and if anybody wants more information on this topic, please feel free to e-mail me with the subject line having "skerri"--my SCA name, and "pavilion question" or something like that, so if it ends up in my bulkmail, I won't dump it.  If I do not answer you in one week, e-mail me again, just in case!  LOL
   
  So, doors.  One way is imagine an isometric grasp with your fingers, and run two seams.  Another is one on top of the other, fold it over one inch and sew, open up and sew twice.  These eat thread faster, because you are going through more layers of fabric.
   
  Finally, a note on what to use.  Go get a cheap scissors sharpener, use ONLY upholstery thread, try to have it match your fabric, and since you are probably using a more modern machine, go slow, expect to use one hand to help the fabric through, find out what kind of oil your machine takes and were and do it, keep the insides of your machine clean (that you can easily reach and do not require a pro's help to do), and remember, if you are using two or more colors of fabric, you can have the spool one color for the top and the bobbin another for the bottom.
   
  TTFN
   
  Lord Skerri Valtorsson
  The Norsemen's Chest

denny gary <sashahart at sexyyoungpics.com> wrote:
          How much are you paying for your Home? To much? 
You have been pre-approved to fill out for a ref inance laon, 
if you need some cash to spend ANY way you like, or simply wish 
to LOWER your monthly payments by a third or more, etc.
Apply online now for your instant quote. Stop over paying... 

http://hinsag.org/d2/

low-deep trade-marker fade-out pre-enlightener firing pin
eagle-pinioned lead ocher
snap shot high-thundering all-able methyl cellulose tortoise-shell butterfly twice-captured
book lung spirit-broken ice pillar tie-in quasi confession
snow apple muckle hammer six-plumed
sheep tick gopher plant stop thrust
mezzo-soprano Trans-arabian mild-aired Corpus domini well-centered
solicitor general leopard cat

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