[Ravensfort] An Ale Recipe for the brewers...
Kief av Kiersted
sirkief at hotmail.com
Mon Aug 27 21:36:28 PDT 2001
Heilsa all Raven's Fort Brewers and Imbibers..
Here a recipe I viked from the A_n_A list...enjoy:
Wæs Þu Hæl in TroÞ and FriÞ...!
"Better the Hammer than the nail..."
--- In asatru_N_action at y..., "Michael M" <michaelm at r...> wrote:
> Well, here it is,my recipe for strong Scottish ale, the very one
>had at the moot, and the same as the one I am drinking right now. I
>alteres it or left anything out. I will upload it to the file
>this list as well, and if anyone has any questions about it, feel
>Good luck, and svae me a bottle or two of it to taste....
>Clan Murray's Dark Highland Strong Scottish Ale
> OK, first off, this is the most difficult recipe that I make. I
>out with a recipe purportedly from Scotland, and have modified it
>years. The recipe I am writing is for the ale that I had with me at
>Moot. It requires grinding ones own grain, and patience. While some
>ingredients are canned and packaged, part of the flavor I am sure
>the water from which it is made. While I am certain that no one
will make it
>and have it taste exactly as mine does, I am equally certain that
>will be a truly excellent beer. This recipe is to make five gallons
>I like to use a six-gallon carboy due to the violent fermentation
>occurs with this one, as well as a blow off tube and water jug for
>initial 24 hours or so of fermentation. Please read the directions
>the way through before starting.
> First, the ingredients, then the process.
>Two cans, 6.6 lbs., of Munton's Amber malt extract
>1 & 1/2 lbs., of Munton's dry malt extract
>3 lbs. Honey, preferably good, unprocessed clover or heather honey
>½ lb. CaraPils Malted barley
>½ lb. Aromatic Malted barley
>1 & ½ lbs. Crystal Malted barley
>1 Oz. Roasted Malt
>1&1/2 oz. Northern hops
>¼ tsp. Irish Moss
>1 pack Ale yeast
> Start by grinding the grains into a large kettle. Once they are
>add approximately one gallon of water. Here is where things might
>interesting, as I recommend using only spring or well water.
> Steep the grains by bringing the mixture to a slow boil, stirring
>occasionally, just to where it starts to steam, and then let the
mix sit and
>steep for 20 minutes.
> Take the mixture, and pour it through a strainer into a large, 4
>size kettle. I usually have to pour about 1/3 of the grain into the
>at a time. When you have a goodly amount of the grain in the
>cold water through it and let it drain into the larger kettle. This
>is called sparging. When you have sparged each strainer full of
grain two or
>three times, or until the liquid coming out of the strainer is
>removes all of the available malt sugars from the grain and gets it
>wort, or soon to be beer.
> Now that you have a fair quantity of sparged liquid in your brew
>turn the heat up under it and bring it to a boil. When the wort is
>add the two cans of liquid malt, the dry malt, hops and the honey.
>the liquid malt is very thick, so I always cook the open cans in a
>water to make them easier to pour. You should probably get this
>about the time that you steep the grains. When you have all of these
>ingredients added to the wort, stir occasionally over high heat
>returns to a boil. Watch it carefully so that it doesn't boil over,
>occasionally, and allow it to boil for an hour. You will likely
>reduce the heat under it a bit.
> When the wort has been boiling for 45 minutes, add the Irish
moss. This is
>seaweed that is used in brewing to clarify the beers and meads and
> When the wort has boiled for an hour total, let it cool some.
> Oh yeah, another thing. At about half an hour into the process,
>water and pour about a cup of it into a..cup. Put a thermometer in
>when it reaches 110-100 degrees F., add the yeast to it. Let this
> Pour the wort through a strainer funnel into the carboy. Using
>well water, bring the total volume in the carboy up to 5 gallons.
>usually cools the wort to about 100 degrees F. The wort and the
>culture need to be within 5 degrees of each other to avoid thermal
>the yeast, typically producing death.
> Once you have inoculated the wort with the yeast, insert a rubber-
>stopper into the mouth of the fermentor, and insert about 2 ½ feet
>grade tubing into the stopper. Place the other end of the tube into
>container of water, submerging the end at least 3-4 inches. This
>airlock that will allow the gases and other things that are going
>off during the initial fermentation. Once the krewsening , or super
>fermentation stage passes, a standard airlock can be used.
> Allow the wort to ferment until it is finished. Usually this
>days. When fermentation is completed, transfer the beer into a
>bucket, add a boiled mixture of 3/8 cup dry light malt and 3/8 cup
>sugar to prime the beer in the bottle, to get it carbonated. Bottle
> I watch mine, and when I can see a white ring at the bottom of the
>bottles, I try one. This usually takes from two weeks to a month.
>drink a 'green' brew, it will likely induce diarrhea.
> The older this brew gets, the more it changes. After about 6
>gets a flavor much like a good Scotch whisky.
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