[Ravensfort] fabric trip

Kezia (Barbara Gilbert) kezia at pbgilbert.net
Mon Jul 22 22:01:32 PDT 2002


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Hear of the places we have gone and the things we have seen.

On July 7th, 12 of use made a journey to Houston to learn about fabric, lead by Mistress Kasilda.  We spent most of the time at Highfashtion fabric because we could look at many different fabrics all in one place.

We looked at lace, the lace fabric that has embroidery on netting is period. While woven, or tatting lace trim is period, yards of lace is not.

 We  pulled out several different shades of pink, blue, and then green. pale colors would not have been used. In the period times people went to a lot of time making dye and if fabric came from the vat pale it would have simply been redeye. Neon colors are not generally accepted as period. However some very bright almost neon colors could have been made by someone who had lots of money and resources. Many different colors and blends were used.
Different cultures used colors for different reasons. In Europe purple was used as a royal color, but in the East red was mostly used. Parts of Europe considered blue to be a peasant color, while parts of the East considered it to be a lucky color. Islam people would not wear green for it is a Holy color. Just some things to think about and do research on.

We looked at different types of material natural and modern. Linen and wool were used in almost all area during the time of study. For a light weight wool look at suite material. Some of it can be fairly cool for our hot weather here. It is very hard to find or use the same materials that was used then. It can also be dangerous because we must remember that we actually live in Texas were it is hot. Europe was more like the climate of New England, and sometimes even colder. We must make adjustments for the heat and money for the close that we live in just get as close as we can. If you are making a garment as an A & S piece it is best to spend the time and money and get the correct materials. Do not take short cuts even if you can only wear it once a year.

You can tell alot about fabric just by felling it. Is it soft,  heavy, rough, or just "ick" felling. To test the coolness of a fabric lay a piece over your hand and gently blow over it. If you can not fell it when you blow then wind will not move though that fabric, it does not breath and will be warm to wear. Not all silks are light weight and cool, some are very tightly woven. They may still fell light weight but they may not breath and therefore will be warm to wear.

If you buy fabric that is already beaded be sure the beads are sewn on for alot of the designs are glued on. Do not buy this, it will not last. The same is true of gold or silver metallic colored patterns. Look on the underside to be sure the color is woven though the fabric. If it is a print the design will usually rub and wash off. Never be shy about holding and touching fabric. We want the cloths we make to last  so pick up that martial rub it, blow on it, pick at it examine it.

Earlier period pattern were usually larger and with a repeating design. Later period fabrics may have more detail and finer patterns. The Persian areas had more detail and finer patterns in the earlier times.

Furs were used in different area and in different ways. furs were used mostly in the colder area were it was needed for comfort. The Byzantine used some fur collars and cuffs but may have dyed them red or purple.

When looking for fabric do not forget the upostery and drapery department. They have shear silks that would make nice veils, heavy material for clocks. There were several drapery materials that have designs of embroidery or sewn on beads.

We then went to look at silks at Roop Sari Palace. Yards and yards of silk. It is not all complete silk, just ask and look at it. These are normally sole in pieces of 6 to 8 yards. You see many bright colors and lots of patterns and embroidery.

We shopped ate a nice lunch then continued to have a full day of exploring. I wish to thank Mistress Kasilda Kubasek for taking the time you show us around.

in service,
HE Kezia

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