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<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>From the Farm Boy Corner…<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Pretty much every dairy barn on the planet is sheathed in tin.
If you want to paint it, that’s fine, but I’d say don’t
bother. Mounds of wet pine straw (like you’d see on a roof) is tin’s
worst enemy here abouts. Even with mounds of wet pine straw, it would be
15 years before the annealing even starts to oxidize... (judging from my
often neglected shed roof). More likely we’d want to paint to
eliminate reflectance.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Weight is going to be a factor if we replace with wood or
plastic. Those mugs were heavy, heavy as they were and coverage was only to
knee level. More wood means more weight. There are some heavy gauge
plastic corrugated sheathing products out there, but I don’t know anything
about it…<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Strength in tin barns comes from the structure it is attached to.
It can take a beating if the lathing is tough. I’d say at least four horizontal,
treated 2x4’s per side (that’s about 2 ft o.c.). Tin screws….
Maybe another scabbed on backer board to cover any screw threads. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>I don’t agree with the wind assessment. Yeah nail
heads can rip through, but what causes that to happen is loose, rattley tin, so
back to the lathing. Good lathing and you won’t have any loose tin.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Durability is pretty good on higher gauge metal. Something
like V-groove from Meuller’s would be best, but will be more expensive.
V-groove is mostly flat, so it doesn’t dent so easily as the corrugated sheets.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>Thinner stuff will dent, but probability is in our favor. With
two-three events per year, there just won’t be that many human-to-shower
interactions. More likely it will get kicked by cow or have a tree
fall on it. Even if it does get dented, so what? What’s
important is that nobody can see yer monkey.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>What’s more, we are more likely to be able to scrounge tin
over marine grade plywood. So there’s a chance we can fix the
showers for pretty much nothing.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'>dsd<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>
ravensfort-bounces@lists.ansteorra.org
[mailto:ravensfort-bounces@lists.ansteorra.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>byzytym<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, October 13, 2008 12:00 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> SF Tester<br>
<b>Cc:</b> A Kindness Of Ravens<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Ravensfort] showers / Re: [rfofficers] Gundy's Find<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal>We already have the metal frames and wood floors.
We are looking to replace the walls. <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal>I believe that painted metal will last longer than you are
letting on and I can't imagine metal that "wind would shred... pretty
quick", but I will give you that thin metal will dent easily. <o:p></o:p></p>
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<div>
<p class=MsoNormal>If wood floating studs are used, they should be light weight
and not the 2x6 used in the past. That certainly would help prevent the
cracking when moved after a few years in the sun. We have had water
barrels that have become brittle and cracked.<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal>Does anyone else have input ? The more suggestions,
the better.<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal>In service,<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal>V NV<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>-----
Original Message ----- <o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal style='background:#E4E4E4'><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;
font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'> <a href="mailto:sftester2@gmail.com"
title="sftester2@gmail.com">SF Tester</a> <o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>To:</span></b><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'> <a
href="mailto:byzytym@att.net" title="byzytym@att.net">byzytym</a> <o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>Cc:</span></b><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'> <a
href="mailto:ravensfort@lists.ansteorra.org"
title="ravensfort@lists.ansteorra.org">A Kindness Of Ravens</a> <o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<div>
<p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>Sent:</span></b><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'> Sunday, October 12,
2008 11:55 PM<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'>Subject:</span></b><span
style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial","sans-serif"'> Re: [Ravensfort]
showers / Re: [rfofficers] Gundy's Find<o:p></o:p></span></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal>On Sun, Oct 12, 2008 at 10:44 PM, byzytym <<a
href="mailto:byzytym@att.net">byzytym@att.net</a>> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal>Good info. <o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal>I think you are going too tick on the metal though.
I'm talking about thin and light.<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><br>
The problem with thin metal is that it dents, fasteners rip through, and it
rusts through way faster than you'd think. Think about how thick a 50 gallon
drum is and how quickly they rot at the site.<br>
<br>
Ok, grab your latest Quoth. Open the cover, 1st, and 2nd pages. Those 3 pages
combined are about .010". 4x8 feet of that, in steel, would be somewhere
around 13 pounds, but would last a few months. Wind would shred it pretty
quick.<br>
<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal>Can you price the sheets of the stuff you are talking about
and see if larger sheets are available ? I'm guessing that have the right
UV inhibitor or gelcoat will cost more ??<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><br>
I'll see what I can dig up. I need to go find some stuff anyway. Don't really
need the UV inhibitor if we paint it. House paint (at least the half decent
stuff) has it.<br>
<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal>You will have to spell out the UHMW. Again, those of
us that do not use the terms every day do not know what the hell you are
talkin' 'bout.<o:p></o:p></p>
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<p class=MsoNormal><br>
Didn't spell that one because it's long and multisyllable grunts aren't my bag
;)<br>
<br>
Ultra-high molecular weight. Same stuff pickle barrels are made of. Nothing
short of a miracle will keep paint attached more than a nanosecond, but it's
tough stuff.<br>
<br>
Another possibility is Tyvek. It's something like paper, but won't tear. If we
came up with the right method to attach it, it may work out since it's cheap
enough to replace it every couple of years.<br>
<br>
If I was making the decisions, I would weld a frame out of 2" square
tubing, then mount FRP or ABS panels on floating studs so the framework can
move some without stressing the walls. Throw in some cedar slats for a floor
and it'll last longer than me (and I'm fairly well pickled after close to 2
decades in Swein camp :P)<br>
--<br>
Gundy<o:p></o:p></p>
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