SC - A bit Bland--Now Jazzed up

L Herr-Gelatt and J R Gelatt liontamr at ptd.net
Fri Dec 12 14:24:20 PST 1997


>I have recently whipped up an almond tart, which is remarkably period,
>however that is the only remarkable thing about it.  While I don't know
>much about English cooking in the late 1500's, I would love some...
>topping to use that would be period. 
>
>Always with the millions of questions,
>Bogdan
>

Bogdan, here are a cuple of ideas for your use: Pickled lemons (recipe
follows) which is basically based on anecdotal evidence and adapted from two
other similar recipes, or preserved oranges from Good Huswife's Jewel
(Dawson). Both are English, and fit into your time frame. I can paraphrase
my redaction for the oranges but don't have my source right in front of me.
Devilish Idea: Use both since they have a similar process, and then
alternate the thin slices on the top of the almond tart, making a fan.
Beautiful! Now I feel inspired!  BTW the syrup from both the recipes is
wonderful and makes a great beverage mixed with cold water. So that would
kill two birds with one stone at a forthcoming feast, Yes?

Hope that the oranges/lemons "make" the dish, the next time you try it. I'm
Sorry I saw your message after the offending tart had already been consumed!


Aoife 
_______________________________________
Preserved Oranges:

Take four perfect oranges (I like tangerines, actually, because of flavor
and medieval-type size. Bonus: with a thin skin, they are far less bitter
after preserving. I'm not sure how thick the skin of period fruit would have
been, but some recipes such as the original in Dawson have us soaking the
fruit overnight to partially re-hydrate them ). Take two oranges that are
not so perfect. Wash them all. Juice the two imperfect oranges and set aside
the juice (discard the peel). The perfect oranges are treated thusly: Make a
small core-type hole in the stem end big enough to insert your little
finger, pulling out any white membrane attached to the core. Discard.
Holding the orange over a bowl to catch any juice, insert a paring knife and
twist it several times, to break up the membranes inside. Insert your little
finger into the hole and press gently towards the side walls, dislodging as
many seeds as possible. Allow the seeds and juice to flow into the bowl.
Now, take the tip of the knife and prick the outer skin all over fairly
closely together (these pricks do not show up in the finished product). Set
aside and repeat with the remaining three oranges.

On the rangetop, have two large pots of boiling water (2/3 full) going at a
rolling boil. Immerse all the oranges in the first pot. Return to a boil and
boil for five minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon, and place in the second
pot. Discard the water in the first and boil it again with fresh water.
Continue shifting the oranges between pots until they are tender and the
skin is slightly transparant. A thin sliver of the skin should taste citrusy
but not bitter. As this point (which may take 5-7 boilings), set the oranges
aside in your drippings-bowl to drain.

In a clean saucepan, put one cup of water, all the orange juice, all the
drippings (strained of seeds), and 2 cups sugar. Beat in the white of one
egg with a whisk. Slowly bring to a boil and continue beating, until you are
sure no threads of egg white will form. Scum off any foam that rises (there
will be a lot---discard it or eat it as you please). Carefully lower the
oranges into the sugar syrup, and simmer for about 5 minutes. Turn the fire
off and let the oranges cool in the pot. They can be sealed airtight and
stored in the fridge, or they can be canned. I kept mine on the counter, in
a period method sealed with a waxed parchment on top, but it grew a beard of
white mold. When the mold was removed, however, the oranges were uneffected.
I can't keep them longer than a month (they're devoured), so I can't speak
to longevity.    

That's the gist of the recipe that won me the Dessert category at Ice
Dragon, served with almond butter and crisp flaky pastry rounds . Hope it
works for you!

__________________________________

Pickled Lemons (adapted from Preserved Orenges, Dawson, and A Sallet of
Lemons from A book of Fruits and Flowers, and various  anecdotal evidence
such as  Elizabeth Ayreton's Food in Briton, etc.). This recipe copyright
1997 by L. Herr-Gelatt.

2 blemish-free lemons
Juice  and zest of 1 lemon (no white)
1 cup white wine (sweet, like Rhine wine)
1 c.  sugar
1/3 cup vinegar (I used home-made costmary/lemon verbena vinegar)

Cut a small round hole in the 2 lemons the size of the end of your little
finger. Remove the piece of peel. Insert  a paring knife into the hole and 
give it several twists to loosen and break the membranes. Insert little
finger and press gently against the flesh to try and loosen any pits. Remove
the pits that fall out, and reserve the draining lemon juice for syrup, below. 

Gently bring to boil 1 quart of water in a suacepan. Lower lemons into the
pan and boil rapidly 5 minutes. Remove and drain. Repeat 3 more times with
fresh water (it is more efficient to have a pan heating while boiling in
another). Drain them well.

In a separate saucepan combine remaining ingredients (and the drained lemon
juice from above). Bring to a boil to combine, and turn off heat. When
lemons have been boiled in the 4 changes of water, put them (drained) into
the wine-syrup mixture and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer approx.
15 minutes or until syrup volume has reduced by 1/3-1/2. Cool. Remove lemon
zest and reserve for another use (it is now candied).

Store in an airtight container. Slice lemons thinly  or dice and use pieces
in salads.

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