SC - Starter Knife Set

Mark Schuldenfrei schuldy at abel.MATH.HARVARD.EDU
Thu Oct 23 06:56:21 PDT 1997


Amr wrote:
  Based upon the description of "Honey Apples", it sounds like you
  already have at least part of a "starter set", soooooo.....

Good post.

A few technoweenie thoughts.....

Get a "high carbon" steel knife.  While harder to sharpen, they hold a
better edge, and they are more "stainless".

Sharpening: there are several steps in sharpening.  One is to remove metal
to make a beveled edge, and keeping that beveled edge straight and without
nicks.  A stone is the tool for that.  But, since steel is not perfectly
homogeneous, and stones are not perfectly smooth, the resulting bevel and
edge are less than perfect.

Steels are the tool for "touching up" an existing bevel, making it smooth
and fixing the point that forms the edge.  You need both.  Combination tools
exist that do both jobs, kinda, but neither well.  I wouldn't bother, unless
you have special needs.  (In which case, you probably should be teaching
ME!)

I use a steel every time I grab a knife from the block.  When that fails to
provide me with a keen edge (about 2-4 times a year, depending on how often
I cut and cook), I use a stone.  Carefully.  I also have "crock-sticks"
which are stones made of ceramic, in a rod shape, and mounted in a wooden
base at a V angle.  Those are adequate, too.

Using a stone is a skill: it isn't something you can do perfectly right
away.  It's a skill worth collecting, however.  Practice on a stinky knife,
though....  at first, you may not get it right.  There are actual books on
sharpening techniques, aimed at new woodworkers....  If you don't want to
learn that process, then you can use something like a crock-stick, or the
back of a can opener.  They aren't as good as a real stone in good hands,
but they are better than nothing.  (You can also send out your knives to be
sharpened.  For what you pay for good knives, that may be the best bargain.)

Storage: do not store any knives wet.  Even great stainless knives can lose
their edge in the presence of moisture.  Don't store them loose in a drawer:
dangerous for you, and the banging can make them nick one another.  (And if
you are a purist, the blade can warp slightly).  If you use a knife block,
try to find one that stores the blade sideways.  If you have a regular block
(as I do) store the knives dull side DOWN.  If the sharp side is down,
you'll just dull it against the block every time you slide the blade in or
out.  Bad for the block, bad for the knife.  Bad for you.

I'm happy with a 3 inch paring, a 5 inch paring, an 8 inch chefs, a bread
knife, a fileting knife, and a small serrated knife for tomatoes.  And a
steel.  I don't do a lot of work with meat, these days, or I'd probably get
a couple of better carving knives.  Other specialty knives are fun, but not
basic.

Learn good cutting techniques for vegetables, and meats.  It can save your
fingers stitches.  If you are a klutz, or hate cutting, get a mandolin.
(Not the instrument, the kitchen tool.)  This is *as* or more important than
what tools you have.  Safety.  Never forget it.

Many people are purists about handles. I've found that I don't care.  (:-)
My best knives have phenolic plastic handles that are carefully shaped.
I've also used wood.  I think wood is "better" when working for hours, but
for most kitchen chores, no great shakes.

	Tibor
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