SC - Here's the recipe

[Philip & Susan Troy]

Uduido at aol.com (Lord Ras al Zib) wrote:

> Here is Vehling's translation of the recipe we've been discussing:
> 
> [46] A DISH OF SCALLOPS    ISICIA EX SPONDYLIS [1]
> 
> [Lightly] COOK SCALLOPS [or the firm part of oysters] REMOVE THE HARD AND
> OBJECTIONABLE PARTS, MINCE THE  MEAT VERY FINE, MIX THIS WITH COOKED SPELT
> AND EGGS. SEASON WITH PEPPER. [shape into croquettes and wrap] IN CAUL, FRY,
> UNDERLAY A RICH FISH SAUCE AND SERVE AS A DELICIOUS ENTREE [2].
> 
> The polenta idea sounds like it would work also. Back to the drawing. :-)
> However, I still think that the cream puff pastry works rather well. And the
> words which are written in small letters are an addition by the author, not
> found in the original (CAPITAL LETTERS).

I've been thinking about the whole idea of adding the pate a choux to
these scallop rissoles. It really sounds like this is a good addition,
from a taste and texture standpoint. It would enrich the whole thing,
and lighten the texture, too. I began thinking that this is much the
same culinary technology as Escoffier would have used for dishes like
quenelles de poisson, which he would have poached.

I was just wondering why Vehling would have made this addition, when the
original recipe clearly calls for boiled spelt-grits. (I don't have a
copy of Vehling's translation, so was unsure of the date.) It suddenly
occurred to me that what we are looking at here is an Escoffier-ism.
They are almost exactly contemporary, and the description of Escoffier
as the man whose career marks the dawn of modern cookery is well-earned,
but that dawn occurred around the turn of the 20th century.

I guess my bone of contention with the idea of pate a choux in Roman
food is that I suspect Vehling of trying to "improve" it, which I bet he
would have said was only an attempt to make the dish more in keeping
with modern tastes and expectations. Up to a point, I can agree with
that, but one can only go so far without getting really confused about
what a re-creationist is trying to achieve, and to learn.

On the other hand, the cuisines of the Middle East, particularly that of
Lebanon, are full of meatballs of various kinds (and all excellent, too)
that are kept firm and moist with very fine bulgur, a product made from
a cooked, cracked soft wheat. Being cooked and then dried, bulgur also
is a bit more convenient to use than actual spelt, as long as you adjust
the liquid levels accordingly.

Yes, I'm probably just as guilty as Vehling of making a modern
equivocation here, but I think this might come a bit closer to the mark,
especially since I'm not working on the automatic assumption that a
recipe run through the eyes of Maitre Escoffier and his ilk is, by
definition, better.

I hope and trust no offense is taken here; none intended. But gosh,
those isicia sound good...

Adamantius 





______________________________________
Phil & Susan Troy
troy at asan.com
============================================================================

To be removed from the SCA-Cooks mailing list, please send a message to
Majordomo at Ansteorra.ORG with the message body of "unsubscribe SCA-Cooks".

============================================================================