SC - An Orange by Any Other Name

THL Renata THLRenata at aol.com
Thu Apr 9 10:23:04 PDT 1998


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Greetings, all!
     I thought these book reviews from Amazon might interest some around here,
especially the first one. What I'd *really* love, though is to get a catalog
for the author's company! Anyone familiar with it?
     And on another book note, I got lucky the other day and found the
Elizabeth David book on ice and ices at the local Barnes and Nobel for $9.95!
Those of you who have these stores in your area might want to check the sale
racks there.......

             Ldy Diana

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Date: Wed, 8 Apr 1998 16:13:33 -0700 (PDT)
Message-Id: <199804082313.QAA13618 at amazon.com>
From: cooking-editor at amazon.com
To: cooking-editors-subscribers at amazon.com
Subject: Spice Is Nice
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The titles reviewed in this message include:

"Adriana's Spice Caravan: Cooking with Spices, Rubs,
and Blends from Around the World" 
by Adriana and Rochelle Zabarkes 
Publisher: Storey Books
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ISBN=0882669877

and

"The International Pantry Cookbook: An Everyday Guide
to Cooking with Seasonings, Prepared Sauces, and Spices" 
by Heidi Haughy Cusick 
Publisher: Chronicle Books 
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ISBN=0811816702

You can find these books and more at
http://www.amazon.com/cooking-199804

                         ******

We're having a heat wave, but it has nothing to do with
El Nino. Highly seasoned dishes--fiery hot or just
intensely flavored--are flooding restaurant menus all
over the world, and food stores are overflowing with
bold-tasting sauces and condiments. In the U.S., robust
salsa has pushed out ketchup as the top seller. Two new
cookbooks, each with a different approach to spice,
focus on flavorful recipes.

I remember when Rochelle Zabarkes opened Adriana's
Bazaar, a cavernous store in New York City. She pretty
much achieved her goal of offering every imaginable
spice and seasoning: you could buy ground watermelon
seeds from Africa, za'atar (an herbal blend spiked with
tart sumac and sesame seeds) used in the Middle East,
and some mysterious powders that even Zabarkes didn't 
know how to use.

When the store didn't do well enough, Zabarkes closed
it, moved to Brooklyn, and redirected her passion for
spices into Adriana's Caravan, a mail-order business. 
She also started working on a cookbook. If you have 
an inquiring mind as well as an adventurous palate, 
you will enjoy sitting down with the result, "Adriana's
Spice Caravan." The recipes meld exceptionally creative
flavor combinations; for example, Zabarkes marries 
French, Middle Eastern, and North African ingredients 
in Sweet and Sour Lamb Shanks, which call for Ras el 
Hanout, a complex Moroccan spice blend, plus red wine
and pomegranate molasses. Sidebars containing quotes 
that come from sources as diverse as Apicius, an
ancient Roman, and British actor and filmmaker Richard 
Attenborough, are as intriguing as the recipes.

In "The International Pantry Cookbook," Heidi Haughy
Cusick takes spicy cooking in equally far-ranging
directions. She adds efficiency, though, by suggesting
that you incorporate highly flavored prepared sauces
and condiments. Seasonings from all over the globe are
included--Japanese wasabi and teriyaki sauce, Mexican
mole, Mediterranean tapenade, even verjuice, an acidic
unripened grape juice made in California. Cusick's
approach is to simplify cooking by offering master
recipes that are accompanied by as many as a dozen
ethnically skewed variations. After explaining how to
marinate and grill chicken and various meats, Cusick
follows with recipes for Senegalese Yassa, Japanese
Yakitori, Indonesian Sate, and Latin American
Chimichurri Grill.

"The International Pantry Cookbook" is particularly
visually distinctive. The contemporary mood of recipes
such as explosive Wasabi Red Pepper Sauce and off-beat
Curried Caponata Cakes is supported by a distinctive
black, white, and orange design, complemented by iconic
graphics.

Few people have access to stores that sell key
ingredients that the recipes in both of these books
require. Recognizing this, each author includes a
comprehensive lists of mail-order sources. If you have
the patience to use the spices, you will be rewarded
with exceptionally flavored food.


- --Dana Jacobi is a contributing editor for Natural Health 
Magazine and has written for Food & Wine, American Health, 
Food Arts, and the Associated Press.

You'll find more great cooking books, articles,
excerpts, and interviews in Amazon.com's Cooking, Food
& Wine section at http://www.amazon.com/cooking-and-food

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