SC - Bagels - was: Did they really eat that?

Phil & Susan Troy troy at asan.com
Thu Aug 13 13:43:56 PDT 1998


Decker, Terry D. wrote:

> I wonder if this is the New York Bagel that is catching on in Oklahoma.  I
> tried them once.  I decided that what they serve is multi-colored glops,
> whose only resemblence to food are the names.  Pizza Hut is preferable.

I'm scared. That's a pretty serious charge!

> > There's no reason why decent bagels couldn't be available anywhere in the
> > world
> > where bread can be made, and the demand is increasing as New Yorkers
> > conquer and
> > colonize our subject lands. So, eventually decent bagels should be easier
> > to get.
> > Pizza, too. You can get good pizza in several towns in New Jersey, for
> > instance.
> >
> Conquer?  Colonize?  Nah.  The New Yorkers we see around here are
> expatriates headed for California.

That probably explains why there is such a small percentage of native New
Yorkers actually living in Manhattan. Between the waiters who are really actors
and the suit-wearing children chomping on cigars they couldn't begin to
comprehend, let alone appreciate, California is starting to look good to me,
too.

> Einstein Bagel, Noah Bagel, Bagel Sphere, Chesapeake Bagel Bakery, Brueggers
> Bagel Bakery don't sound like New York to me.

<snip>

> Personally, were I starting such an establishment, I might try the Grand
> Vienna Bagel Bakery producing bagels to "the true bagel recipes of the
> master European bakers."  That ought to appeal to the snobs.  It would even
> be halfway honest, since the bagel recipes I use are French.

I dunno, most of the people snobbish enough to go for the concept wouldn't read
the sign in its entirety. Inbreeding, I guess. I don't believe I've ever seen a
French bagel recipe. Italian, yes.

> All joking aside, what do you consider the chief attributes of a good bagel.
> Most of what is locally available isn't good baking, much less a good bagel,
> so it will be interesting to see how they stack up to your standards.

Okay. You must have a good high-gluten flour. I think either an ordinary bread
yeast or a recent (as in not too tangy) sourdough are best for leavening. The
dough needs to rise at least twice before forming them (they should have a very
fine crumb, with tiny bubbles). They should be formed by hand, and never, ever
cut out. Ideal method is to form a ball and punch your finger through it, then
stretch it a bit to open up a ring. (Italian bagels, which are a slightly
different animal, are made more like pretzels, with an overlap). They should be
poached in very salty water, at a proper poaching temperature. Steaming is
something I'd like to try for this job.

Egg wash (sometimes with whites only) is brushed on, and optional toppings of
coarse salt, sesame or poppy seeds (I've had good bagels with caraway or cumin
seeds sprinkled on) can be added. Minced onion or garlic are acceptable. Baked
fairly quickly in a very hot oven. The outside crust should crunch audibly,
with the inner crumb fluffy, just a bit dense and chewy. I like egg bagels,
sometimes, and they usually  are simply glazed with no additional topping.

Adamantius
______________________________________
Phil & Susan Troy
troy at asan.com


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