SC - sauces thickened with eggs: long post
Dan Gillespie
dangilsp at intrepid.net
Mon Jan 26 16:27:27 PST 1998
Hello to the list:
There are several meat recipes in the 1607 Arte de Cozina that I've
been puzzling over for a few weeks now. The recipes call for sauces to be
made with eggs, vinegar & sometimes drippings from the pan. I have been a
bit reluctant to try these as I am afraid that I will either end up with
seasoned scrambled eggs, something resembling egg drop soup or perhaps a
curdled looking sauce. Any suggestions for particular cooking techniques
are much appreciated. Below are some excerpts the the cookbook.
Thanks, Antoine
Book 1 Chap 6
<Make hamburger patty like things with ground lamb, greens, spices &
eggs. Bake the patties> "Then being cooked, beat a pair of eggs with a
little vinegar & make a thick sauce & then place it with the plates & cast
the sauce on top & serve it to the table> Sounds like a sauce of raw eggs.
YUCK!!!
Book 1 Chap 9
<Make a meatloaf thingie with ground lamb, etc & bake> "Beat an egg
or two, with the broth that leaves the roscon, casting other a little more,
& make it thick with it........& cast the broth on top. And be warned that
while it is on the fire, stir it bit by bit, that it doesn't stick, & make
all of this & you may serve it." At least this sauce appears to be cooked.
Book 1 Chap 34
<Roast a peacock in buttered parchment. Make almond milk from
toasted nuts & degreased broth or water & strain it thru a cloth or a
strainer.> "A little white wine & vinegar or orange juice or verjuice,
casting all this is a small earthen pot & 4 beaten eggs: all of that in its
pot with a quarter pound of sugar: cook it on a small fire, stirring it
always to one hand, until it is thickened & when you cast the eggs let the
broth be cold so that it does not curdle & cast this sauce on plates with
sugar & cinnamon on top. Let it have a point of sourness & it is called
royal sauce." Again, I am rather leary about uncooked eggs. Won't all the
acid in the sauce cause the eggs to curdle besides?
Note: There are many recipes for what appear to be casserole dishes. They
call for minced meat to be cast into a casserole pan with greens & spices,
etc with beaten eggs put on top "to thicken it" & cooked with fire above &
below the pot. In these recipes, it seems to me that the eggs are there to
bind the ingredients into a whole which can be sliced at the table, like a
modern casserole dish like tuna casserole.
Dan Gillespie
dangilsp at intrepid.net
Dan_Gillespie at usgs.gov
Martinsburg, West Virginia, USA
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