SC - Substitutions

david friedman ddfr at best.com
Tue Mar 10 16:59:05 PST 1998


 Niamh suggested sumac as a lemon alternative:

>> How about Staghorn Sumac Berries?  They are probably OOP, but one name
>>they're
>> known by is Lemonade tree.
>>
 and Adamantius responded:

>Not surprising. I've never heard of Staghorn Sumac, but  the sumac used
>in Middle Eastern cookery is tart stuff. I don't have a specific
>reference, but I'd be surprised to find sumac _isn't_ period, at least
>for Islamic cooking.
>
Staghorn sumac is a bush with big compound leaves (which turn bright orange
and red in fall) and dark red seed clusters (or maybe fruit clusters?)
which stand up at the end of the branches; you find it in overgrown meadows
and along the freeways all over the Midwest/Northeast--you have undoubtedly
seen it, Adamantius.  I have vague memories from Girl Scouts of drinking
"pink lemonade" made from the seed clusters.  I believe it is a North
American native.

The spice sumac you buy in Middle Eastern or Iranian groceries is a dark
red powder of just about the colour of the fruits/seeds you see on staghorn
sumac, and the taste is pretty similar, too, if my memory is correct.  It
is called for in period Islamic recipes--a quick search of the _Miscellany_
turned up both 13th and 15th century Middle Eastern recipes calling for
sumac.  So I think there has to be an Old World sumac closely related to
staghorn, though I don't know the species.

And, as I think someone said, poison ivy/poison oak is fairly closely
related to the sumacs, but has white berries--and while I have heard of
people eating them, I would not advise it.

Elizabeth/Betty Cook


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