SC - Apician Teriyaki Chicken 8-); and ostrich sauces

Gerekr at aol.com Gerekr at aol.com
Wed Sep 2 23:02:08 PDT 1998


While regailing my husband with the saga of the Phantom Apician Fried 
Chicken, I finally found the recipe in Flower and Rosenbaum and was 
reading it off.  Quoth he, "If liquamen is a soy sauce analog (Cariadoc 
and Charles Perry reference), that sounds more like teriyaki chicken".  
"No no," quoth I, "teriyaki is sweet as well as salty."  So I puddled on 
thru some more and find a sweetener!  He was right!

Phlip wanted the latin.  Here is Apicius 250 from the Flower & Rosenbaum 
text and their translation.

F&B, p.164, #12 (Vehling #250(?))
Pullum Frontonianum: pullum praedura, condies liquamine oelo mixto, cui 
mittis fasciculum anethi, porri, satureiae et coriandri viridis, et 
coques. ubi coctus furit, levabis eum, in lance defrito perunges, piper 
aspargis et inferes. 

Chicken a la Fronto.  Brown the chicken, put in a mixture of liquamen and 
oil to which you add a bouquet of dill, leek, savory, and green 
coriander; and braise.  When it is done take it out, place on a 
serving-dish, sprinkle generously with defrutum, powder with pepper, and 
serve.

Notes in the introduction (pp. 22-24) identify liquamen as "garum", but 
state that the term "liquamen" is used almost exclusively in the Mss.  
They describe the short method of liquamen production which they used 
(very general, no quantities).  "Defrutum" is a sweet, reduced wine 
preparation... F&B say they make theirs (p. 24-25) from tinned 
grape-juice, reduced to 1/3 of its volume.  The effect is "an excellent 
flavor and a very pleasant slight sweetness."

The two sauces for ostrich:  
p. 151 #1 In struthione elixo: piper, mentam, cuminum assum, apii semen, 
dactylos vel caryotas, mel, acetum, passum, liquamen et oleum modice, et 
in caccabo facies ut bulliat. amulo obligas, et sic partes struthionis in 
lance perfundis, et desuper piper aspargis. si autem in condituram 
coquere volueris, alicam addis.

Sauce for boiled ostrich.  Take pepper, mint, grilled cumin, celery-seed, 
dates or Jericho dates, honey, vinegar, passum, liquamen, and a little 
oil, and bring to the boil in a saucepan.  Thicken with cornflour and 
pour this sauce over the pieces of ostrich in the serving-dish, and 
sprinkle with pepper.  But if you wish to cook the ostrich in the sauce 
add spelt-grits.

p. 151 #2 Aliter <in> struthione elixo: piper, ligusticum, thymum aut 
satureiam, mel, sinape, acetum, liquamen et oleum.

Another sauce for boiled ostrich.  Pepper, lovage, thyme or savory, 
honey, mustard, vinegar, liquamen and oil.

"Passum" is another cooking-wine preparation, used to sweeten (p. 25-26). 
 Very sweet, apparently.  Their make-do is "a very sweet Spanish wine" 
which is sweet enough, but not really the right/original flavor.      

Much too late!

Have fun,
Chimene & Gerek (who was right!, 8-))
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