SC - Anthro and cooking
Tollhase1@aol.com
Tollhase1 at aol.com
Sun Aug 29 21:07:06 PDT 1999
Kerri asked about the wafer recipe I mentioned in the new Polish cookbook:
> Would you please post the wafer recipe? I've got one more authentic recipe and
> one modern one left to try and I'd like more authentic ones.
Here it is. It took me a while to scan and convert it. Hope it comes through
ok. I have also included the comments that were with the recipe. As mentioned
in my earlier message neither the original recipe nor translation str given.
Now to order a pizzle iron so I can try this and the other wafer recipes
I have.
Stefan
- ----------------
>From Food and Deink in Medieval Poland by Maria
Dembinska. Revised and Adapted by William Woys Weaver.
University of Pennsylvania Press 1999.
Saffron Wafers (Oplatki Szafranowe)
Saffron was more expensive in Gdansk than in Cracow or
Lvov during the Middle Ages, which suggests that distance
from market source played a key role in determining the
cost of such imported goods. A large portion of Polish
saffron appears to have come from regions bordering the
Black Sea where saffron originated, via Genoese middlemen.
Its use in Polish cookery was a mark of high status, so it
may seem contradictory that it also was commonly used in
foods associated with fasting. Yet saffron wafers were
served at the Polish court during meatless days or at the
end of the meal with various confections and Malvasia wine.
Because they also contained sugar, the wafers were
generally made by specialized confectioners and were
therefore not only sweet but also expensive. Part of the
expense (aside from the saffron and sugar) was high-quality
flour, which had to be farina alba cribrata - the finest
sort. Another reason for the cost was manufacture, for the
art of wafer making is a distinct craft unto itself, and
rather tedious. In spite of this, a good wafer baker was
said to produce about one thousand wafers a day. Indeed, it
was sometimes a specialty of nunneries or monasteries,
which derived income from the sale of such goods.
Wafers were made with irons ornamented with various
patterns that were impressed into the surface of the wafer
as it baked. Polish irons were normally round, although
rectangular North German and Dutch types were also used in
Gdansk and Pomerania.(6) Metal wafer irons are mentioned
in several medieval sources and on occasion they are
depicted, but none have survived intact. The images were
generally religious, and an especially good wafer maker
would have several sets of irons on hand to meet the demand
of funerals, weddings, and special religious feasts, such
as Easter or Christmas, For everyday use, the royal court
probably served wafers impressed with the royal coat of
arms, or the coat of arms of a special guest if the
intention was to flatter or impress.
Since sugar absorbs and amplifies flavors, wafers must be
made over a smokeless heat source, the most common being a
charcoal stove. This technique requires considerable
practice because the iron must be turned constantly to keep
both halves evenly heated. The iron must be also kept hot
while it is being refilled with wafer batter Last, the
wafers must be trimmed while they are hot and soft and
still in the iron; once cool, they become brittle and break
easily. All of this implies speed and a steady hand with a
very sharp knife. Having tested this recipe with a wafer
iron from the 1500s, I can report that total baking time
per wafer should be about 6 minutes, or 3
minutes per side, depending on the type of metal from which
the iron is
is made (there are several alloys) and its thickness.
Accomplished wafer bakers could probably do this in half
the time; I was somewhat restrained by the cautious use of
antique equipment.
1 cup (250 g) double sifted pastry flour
1 cup (250 g) superfine sugar (white sugar ground to a fine
powder, called bar sugar in the United States)
1/4 teaspoon finely ground saffron
4 egg whites
2 to 3 tablespoons (30 to 45 ml) rosewater
poppy seed oil
Yield: About 30 wafers, depending on the size of the iron
Before assembling the ingredients, which should be at room
temperature, light a charcoal grill or old-style charcoal
stove so that the coals have a good 30 minutes to heat and
reduce to embers. Do not use self-lighting charcoal, since
this will give the wafers a burned petroleum flavor.
Sift together the flour, sugar and saffron three
times. Whisk the egg whites until they are stiff and form
peaks, then fold them into the dry ingredients. Moisten
with rose water so that it forms a thick batter.
Heat both sides of the wafer iron (or a pizzelle
iron) over the charcoal stove or grill. When evenly hot on
both sides, open the iron and grease it liberally. Put some
of the batter on one side and let it spread. Slowly close
up the iron but do not press hard, just enough to force the
batter out to the edges. Turn the iron over the coals often
until the batter begins to bubble around the edges, then
press tightly and hold it firmly together, turning the iron
several times (this will caramelize the sugar and cause the
wafer to stiffen). Batter that has run out of the edges can
now be trimmed off neatly with a very sharp knife. Once the
wafer tests done, the iron can be opened and the wafer
removed with the help of a knife. Repeat until all the
batter is used. Perfectly made wafers will bake paper-thin
and turn out a golden fawn color. Once cool, they can be
stored several months in airtight containers.
<end>
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