SC - Medici Archive question-sommate di Napoli- can anyone here help?

[Wanda Pease]

RESEARCH QUERY FROM THE MEDICI ARCHIVE:  We are eager to hear any ideas
regarding the "sommate di Napoli."  From their placement in the list, they
would seem to be a variety of sausage.  Please reply to:  info at medici.org


Document of the Month  October 1999

MANGIA! MANGIA!
Francesco de' Medici in Spain requests Italian food.
Presented by:  Bruce Edelstein, Medici Archive Project Researcher
DOCUMENT DATE:  Undated [1562]
FROM: Unidentified Correspondent
PLACE:  Spanish Court [Probably Madrid]
TO:  Secretary Antonio Serguidi
PLACE:  Tuscan Court [probably Florence]

DOCUMENT CITATION:  Archivio di Stato di Firenze, Mediceo del Principato
1212, ins. 5, fol 865
(letter fragment)
(Entry 4304 in the "Documentary Sources" database.)
TRANSLATION:
[...] In my opinion, the following rare and delicious foods could be shipped
from Tuscany to us here in Spain:  big marzolini cheeses, stored in
wineskins filled with oil and then placed in wooden casks, in whatever
quantity seems appropriate; Mantuan or Ferrarese salami; large
Bolognese-style sausages made in Florence; Neapolitan sommate; the largest
and most beautiful red apples that can be found, stored in baskets and then
in a barrel or two, depending on the quantity; likewise, pears of various
kinds; six or eight whole cheeses of cacio marolino; parmigiano cheese would
not be inappropriate, both for the table and for use in the kitchen; some
casks of olives cured in the good Florentine way since these are superior to
Spanish olives and will be thought a rare delicacy; a couple of cases of
Pisan biscotti specially made with the finest sugar and wine-must;
Neapolitan-style mostaccioli; numerous boxes of sugar candies made by the
nuns with special are, since these will be considered wonderful here; if it
is not too taxing for someone to transport from Bologna a case containing
many flasks of beleadia made by an expert woman, I think that it would be
much appreciated [...]

TEXT:  [...] Le cose che si potriano far condurre de Toscana qua in Spagna
delitiosa et rare per magnar a mio iuditio sono l'infrascritte, cioe:
marzolini grossi, poste in otri con olio et poi in barili di legno, in
quella quantita che parera a proposito; salami de Mantova o Ferra;
salsicciotti fatti in Firenze grossi alla Bolognese; sommate di Napoli; mele
rose (rosse) et appie le piu belle et grosse che si potessero trovar, poste
in canestri et poi in usa botte o dua secondo la quantita; et similmente
pere di piu sorte; sei o otto forme di cacio marzolino; parmagiano non
sarebbe fuori di proposito, cosi per servitio dela tavola come della cucina;
qualche barile d'olive della buona concia di Firenze che avanzano quella di
Spagna et saria cosa rara; un paro di casse de biscotti pisani fatti a posta
con zuchero et musco in tutta eccelentia; mostaccioli alla napolitana et
parecchi scatole di zuccherini fatti dalle monache, che qua  riuscirebbono
cosa maravigliosa, fatti massimamente con diligentia; chi potessi o volessi
condurre in una cassa parecchi fiaschi di beleadia di Bologna fatta da buona
maestra credo che piacerebbe assai, se l'imbarazzo del condurre non
disturba[...]

HISTORICAL BACKGROUND: The Medici frequently exchanged large and small gifts
with other princely courts, sending and receiving jewelry, textiles and
works of art as well as specialty foodstuffs.  Since the present fragmentary
letter was found in a run of correspondence from the entourage of Prince
Francesco de'Medici (later Grand Duke Francesco I) during his state visit to
Spain in 1562, the Prince might well have intended to offer these treats to
Spanish courtiers at his own table.
	The Medici sought out the best and most novel food items and did not limit
themselves to local Tuscan specialities.  In some cases we can identify the
products under discussion since they are still esteemed as delicacies four
centuries later.  "Parmigiano" (Parmesan cheese) scarcely requires
explanation.  Marzolion is a sheep's milk cheese, traditionally made in the
spring; the ones stored in oil in wineskins must have been fresh and fairly
small ("grossi" could be taken to mean "plump" as well as "big".)  The cacio
marzolion was probably a larger and more aged version of the same.  The
"large Bolognese-style sausages made in Florence" might have been local
imitations of the celebrated Bolognese mortadella (also known as "Bologna
Sausage" or even "baloney".)  In current usage, "salami di Mantova" are
small, hard garlic-flavored products.  The Ferrarese "salami" (or "la salama
di Ferrara") is larger and softer; it is normally eaten cooked (rather like
"cotechino".)
	The Bolognese beleadia (evidently a liqueur or cordial) "made by an expert
woman" is probably a convent production, like the "sugar candies" that
precede it in the list.  It is curious to note that the essential sugar for
these zuccerini and also the biscotti pisani probably came from the New
World by way of Spain in the first place.  Mostaccioli (sweets made with
wine-must and dried and candied fruits) are still associated with Naples,
though they are also produced in other regions.


                This is a fun site, can anyone on SCA Cooks help them?

Regina

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