SC - Rhubarb in Period
Donald W. Lewis
don at NATSO.com
Tue Oct 5 10:03:56 PDT 1999
Here is a page that shows many cases of rhubarb being used through
history.
http://www.rhubarbinfo.com/rhubarb-history.html
Donald MacGregor
-----Original Message-----
From: David Dendy [mailto:ddendy at silk.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 1999 12:31 PM
To: SCA Cooks
Subject: SC - Rhubarb in Period
Quite some time ago someone was inquiring about the use
of rhubarb in period
cooking, and if I recall correctly the consensus was
that it was a
post-period innovation, as "pie-plant".
This may be correct for western Europe, but I was just
re-reading a summary
of a mid-13th century Arab cookbook, the "Kitab al-Wusla
ila l'Habib" (in
Maxime Rodinson, "Recherches sur les documents arabes
relatifs a la
cuisine", in REVUE DES ETUDES ISLAMIQUES, vol. 17
(1949), and a number of
recipes using rhubarb are listed. In Chapter V (Chicken
recipes), three
recipes for "poulet a la rhubarbe' (chicken with
rhubarb) are given, and in
Chapter VI (Dry dishes, fried, rissoles, etc.) two for
"viande a la
rhubarbe" (meat with rhubarb). In a note on the section
on Cold Relishes
("bawarid" in Arabic), the editor quotes Najib ad-din
as-Samarqandi (a
medieval Arab physician, if I recall correctly): "Les
bawarid sont des
legumes verts cuits que l'on met dans des liquides
acides comme le vinaigre,
le verjus, le [jus de] sumac, le jus de pommes, le [jus
de] rhubarbe et le
lait caille (persan "mast")." (which, roughly
translated, is "Bawarids are
chopped green vegetables which are put in acid liquids
like vinegar,
verjuice, sumac [juice], apple juice, rhubarb [juice],
and yoghurt.")
So it seems clearly that at least by the 13th century
rhubarb was being used
in Middle Eastern cookery, as an acidulant or souring
agent. It would surely
be the stalks, as today; the leafs are fully of oxalic
acid, which causes
horrible pain if ingested, so it's not the leaves; and
the root is a
pugative, so it won't be the root.
Unfortunately, Rodinson gives only the summary of the
cookbook, with only a
few full recipes, not including any of the rhubarb
recipes. If there is
anyone on the list who can read medieval Arabic, it
might be possible to get
a copy of the cookbook (at least one copy, in the
British Museum, has been
microfilmed) and translate them (and there are a couple
of recipes for spice
mixture I'd dearly love translations of, as well).
Any other examples?
Francesco Sirene
David Dendy / ddendy at silk.net
partner in Francesco Sirene, Spicer / sirene at silk.net
Visit our Website at http://www.silk.net/sirene/
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