SC - Re: period Hungarian dishes

Thomas Gloning Thomas.Gloning at germanistik.uni-giessen.de
Wed Oct 20 15:41:39 PDT 1999


Here is a somewhat more detailed list of some Hungarian dishes in some
non-hungarian cookbooks:


14th century/ 15th century

- -- Frati p. 59 = Faccioli I, 97-98 (Torta ungaresca per XII persone)

- -- Jean de Bockenheim, Registrum coquinae, c. 1430-50, ed. Laurioux
1988, Nr. 36 (Alia basteda pro magnatis; the ‘magnates’ were the
aristocrats in Poland and Hungary), Nr. 37 (Alia torta pro Ungaris et
Bohemis)


16th century

- -- Philipina Welser (1545) 141.17 (ain hecht ein machen auf vngeresch)

- -- Sabina Welser (1553) S.24.12 & Nr. 191 (hecht jn ainer vngerischen
brie)

- -- Heidelberg: Codex palatinus germanicus 293, fol. 26r (Wiswe 108 &
note; not seen myself).

- -- Heidelberg: Codex palatinus germanicus 555, fol. 111r (Wiswe 108 &
note; not seen myself).

- -- München: Codex germanicus monacensis 349 (1548) fol. 118r ss.
(Vermerk ein guede kunst von vngrischen oder pechamyschen essen zu
kochen; Wiswe 108 & note; according to Wiswe "wenig ergiebig"; seen one
page in Wiswe's book, but not yet deciphered).

- -- Kleines Klosterkochbuch (ed. Otto, Leipzig 1856; not a very reliable
source; the text is somewhat modernized, the manuscript was not found
any more in later times):
p. 11 (Ein Hecht auf hungarisch zu sieden),
p. 31 (Wilde oder zahme Gänse, Enten und Kapphanen auf hungarisch
anzurichten),
p. 34 (Junge Hühner auf hungrisch),
p. 65 (Eine Gallart von jungen Ferkeln auf hungarisch zu bereiten),
p. 67 (Ein Rinderbraten auf Hungarisch),
p. 113 (Sauerkraut auf hungarisch anzurichten).

- -- Anna Wecker (1598), p. 224f. (Ein Koppen vnd andere Hünerqualen oder
Schlegel/ Kälbern oder Schepsen auff Vngrisch zu bereiten).

- -- Rumpolt, Ein new Kochbuch, 1581
hungarian recipes or characteristics mentioned on fol. 18r, 33v, 38r,
40r, 42r, 49v, 53r, 81r, 82v, 85v, 97v, 110r, 106r etc. (according to
Wiswe 108; you might also search for „vnger“ in our online-passages from
Rumpolt, to see some of the mentioned recipes)

- -- Meßisbugo, Libro novo, 1557
fol. 17r (Trutte in vino alla Ongaresca; only mentioned; no recipe? or
105v??)
fol. 107r (A fare potaccio di pesce, all’ Ongaresca)


17th century

- -- Grazer Kochbuch 1686, 97.1 (Ungarisch überschlagenes Pastetel)

- -- Wolfenbüttel: Codex Guelferbytanus 51 Aug. 4°, fol. 218v; 223r (Wiswe
108 & note; not seen myself)

- -- Coler (1665) p. 50 & 57 (Wiswe 108 & notes; not seen myself)


18th century

- -- Riedlinger Kochbuch 1710, 33.9 // 52.14 // 54.11 // 56.11 // 231.13
(ein guet vngerische Suppen vber einen Hächten/ einen Karpffen/ ein
Hienel)

- -- Riedlinger Kochbuch 1710, 73.9 (ungerischer Kopaun)

****

I can't key in and translate all these recipes at present. But here is
the recipe from the oldest text, the 'libro per cuoco' (Ms. 15th
century, text 14th century):

"CXIII  Torta ungaresca per xii persone. 
Toy uno capone ben grasso e toy uno lombolo de porco grande e do cepole
grosse e meza libra de specie dolze e fine e toy tre libre d'onto fresco
che non sia salato e toy tanta farina che sia tre pani, la megliore, che
tu poy avere; e toy lo capone e 'l lombolo del porco e fane morselletti
e de le do cepole fane morselletti e meti queste cosse a sofriger
[soflriger_Ed.] in lo songiazo fresco in quantità; e de le dite dolze e
zafarano assay e un poco de sale; e quando è ben sofrito mitige un
bichiero d'aqua ch'el se cocha senza compimento, e toli la farina e
destruta con aqua fresca insalata con un pocho de salina e menala molto
forte, e quando è ben menato, toy uno testo de ramo ben stagnato e
onzilo ben de questo lardo fresco che tu ay. Toy la pasta e menala e
sotiliata con una mescola e fala sotille, e siate due a traer sotille a
foglio con lardo e fane infina a XVIII fogli, et postea toy questo
batuto de capon e de altre cosse fane uno solo suso questa metà, e poni
tante altre foglie sopra questo solo ben inaffiato ziaschuno per si di
lardo e fa una crosta de sopra per vardia. Questa torta vole poco foco
sotto e ben foco di sopra, e poy fare per piu, o per men, toiando le
cosse a questa mesura." (I hope the special characters go through.)

If you know of other recipes of this kind, please, let me know.

Thomas

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