SC - Fw: Transplanting Tips

[Alderton, Philippa]

OK, folks, here are some more gardening tips from the people at Burpee. This
batch has more to say about peppers and tomatoes than anything else, but the
principles would apply to other garden crops, for those of us interested in
growing period vegetables.


Phlip

Nolo disputare, volo somniare et contendere, et iterum somniare.

phlip at morganco.net

Philippa Farrour
Caer Frig
Southeastern Ohio


>BURPEE GARDEN NEWS
>=======================
>
>April 18, 2000
>
>The Burpee Garden News is presented by your friends
>at Burpee and the National Gardening Association.
>Every two weeks, you will receive gardening
>news, tips, and inspiration from our panel of experts.
>=======================
>
>Transplanting Tips
>
>Moving your plants from their cozy indoor home into the
>wild outdoors is bound to be an adjustment for your plants.
>But you can ease the transition by taking the time to prepare
>your plants (and yourself) for the move. Here are some
>guidelines to keep in mind:
>
>1. Harden off the plants. Here’s a sample routine:
>
>The first day, set the flats or pots outdoors in partial shade,
>protected from wind, for a couple of hours. Increase their time
>outside by an hour or so a day for the next several days.
>Then place the flats in full sun for a couple of hours. Over the
>next few days, gradually increase the number of hours the
>plants are left in the sun.
>
>Once they’ve grown accustomed to the full sun all day, leave
>the plants outside overnight if there’s no danger of frost. After about
>10 days of hardening off, your plants should be ready for life outdoors.
>
>2. Choose a cloudy day for transplanting, or transplant late
>in the day. Bright sun can increase moisture loss from newly
>planted transplants whose roots inevitably suffer some damage
>during the process.
>
>3. Soak the transplants with a dilute fish emulsion or seaweed
>solution in their flats an hour before transplanting. This helps to
>retain soil around the roots, makes the root mass easier to handle,
>and applies a quick dose of soluble fertilizer.
>
>4. Have everything ready before removing the plants from the
>flats. Apply fertilizer in the furrow or in the holes, have all tools
>at hand, etc.
>
>5. Protect against cutworms. This is especially important for
>tomatoes, peppers, and other veggies with tender stems.
>These ground-level pests can chew completely through thin
>stems. Cut strips of newspaper and wrap one around each
>stem so that it extends an inch or two above the soil surface
>to an inch or two below. The collars are easy to use and last
>long enough for the stems to grow thick enough to discourage
>cutworms. Avoid tight collars of plastic which can restrict the
>stem growth.
>
>6. Working quickly, cup the root ball in one hand as you remove
>the transplant from its container, and tuck it into its home in the
>garden. A smooth and speedy transition from flat to soil means
>less of a shock to the plant. If you have to grasp part of the plant,
>hold the leaves, not the stem. A plant won’t survive if its stem is
>crushed, but it can always grow new leaves if some are damaged.
>
>7. Keep transplants watered. The heat and wind will increase
>moisture loss, and the root systems of your plants are not
>developed enough to withstand much moisture stress.
>
>Question of the Week
>=================
>Q. How should I remove the transplants from their containers when
>I’m ready to plant them outside?
>
>A. Turning the container upside-down and tapping on the bottom
>sometimes loosens the soil ball from the sides of the container.
>If this doesn’t work, use a spoon or dull knife to pry up the soil ball
>and place it in your hand.
>
>================================================
>Visit the Burpee website for your latest regional gardening news:
>http://www.burpee.com
>