OT - Re: SC - Re: saffron

Philip & Susan Troy troy at asan.com
Mon Apr 3 05:04:29 PDT 2000


CBlackwill at aol.com wrote:
> 
> I am taking a big risk by saying this, but saffron, IMHO, does not really
> impart that much flavor to begin with (perhaps a little "dusty curtain"
> taste), and it is very over priced.

That's right, it was a big risk to take. The Spice Police are even now
zeroing in on your IP address...

>  I know, there are all those farm workers
> out there, hand picking the little stamen....but why?  For the flavor it
> imparts (and the color, for that matter), you may as well use annatto or
> turmeric.  Or, dare I say it, buy one of those industrial sized vats of
> Yellow #5...

Well, again, this is a matter of opinion, and my saying something like,
"I do use annatto and turmeric often, when I feel their quite
distinctive flavors and colors are called for in a particular cooking
job, just as I do with saffron, with _its_ quite distinctive flavor and
color," is, I suppose, besides the point.

> We tend to "worship"  spices these days, simply because of
> their cost or rarity, and without, in some cases, any regard to their quality
> or benefit.

Can't argue with that! Of course, I'd prefer to say " 'They' tend to
'worship' spices..." You know. those other people, the ones with no
taste. Not us ;  ) .

> I am sure that there are many people on this list who will turn
> red with rage when they read this, but this is just my opinion.  To each
> his/her own.  If you love the musty flavor of saffron, then bully for you.
> I, for one, could take it or leave it.  I would much rather use something
> else.  Let me know what you good folks think, as I have come to respect your
> opinions highly.

Hmmm. You raise an interesting point, essentially that for its
non-aggressive flavoring and coloring capabilities, saffron isn't worth
the money. That's a legitimate opinion, of course, and there's not much
point in my trying to say you're wrong. Let me try this, though. There
are some dishes for which saffron is generally considered indispensable. 

Let's see, now...okay, think of bouillabaisse. Specifically the
Marseilles variety, which is what most people think of when they think
of bouillabaisse. Since it contains tomatoes, and is generally sort of
orangey-red in any case, saffron's role as a colorant is minimal. It's
there, but its contribution is more subtle than it would be in, say,
risotto Milanese. As for flavor, well, it adds a certain iodine tang in
addition to the muskiness you speak of. There's nothing especially loud
about the ingredients in bouillabaisse (sorry, I have a bee in my
culinary bonnet about "loud" and "aggressive" foods). Leeks. Tomatoes.
Garlic. Olive oil. White wine. Maybe some thyme. An assortment of very
fresh fin fish and crustaceans. They form the substrate, the
infrastructure. 

What makes bouillabaisse tingle on your tongue like a nine-volt battery,
what qualifies it as loud, larger-than-life, Technicolor food, are three
additional ingredients: fennel, saffron, and a little orange peel. 

Apart from saying that they add significantly to the aroma, and
therefore the flavor, of the dish, I can't really explain their
contribution. It's as if they add depth. If you make two pots of
bouillabaisse, one without saffron, and one with, you'd see the
difference. The one without it will be sort of two-dimensional in
comparison to the one with it.
 
I guess all I can say on the question of saffron's contribution to
certain dishes is that it is a subtle addition it would be a shame to
miss or forego, but its very subtlety, not to mention a fairly short
shelf life unless properly stored, make it easy to see it as no big deal.

Adamantius (who has decided that it's no fun having to type
"bouillabaisse" several times and spell it right every time)
- -- 
Phil & Susan Troy

troy at asan.com


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