SC - Cider Sauce Experiments

[lilinah at earthlink.net]

Robin Carroll-Mann shared her recipe for Spanish cider sauce with the list:

CIDER SAUCE
Source: Diego Granado, Libro del Arte de Cozina, 1599
Translation & Redaction: Lady Brighid ni Chiarain

Apple Cider Sauce
2 cups sweet apple cider
8 ounces sugar
1/4 cup white wine vinegar
2 tablespoons white wine
1/2  ounce	cinnamon sticks
1/2 whole nutmeg
4 whole cloves
Combine all ingredients in a saucepan and simmer over medium-low heat 
about 45 minutes, until the volume is reduced by half and a candy 
thermometer reads 220F (105C).  Strain through cheesecloth.  Pour 
into a clean glass jar.  Refrigerate.  Makes about 1 cup.

=====================

What i did:

1.) Being an American without a kitchen scale, i consulted "The Joy 
of Cooking" which said that 1 pound of sugar equaled approx. 2 cups.

2.) Although apples grow here in northern California, i do not live 
in a fresh cider area. Yes, they sell it around here, and i found it 
for around 8 dollars a gallon. To make enough sauce i needed 2.5 
gallons and $20 dollars was more than i wanted to spend for the 
sauce, considering i had already purchased about $60 spices. So i am 
cheating. I bought a frozen natural unsweetened apple juice 
concentrate, which makes a gallon for under $4.

3.) Where i was shopping the white wine vinegar was only in little 
bottles, so it was mongo expensive, but there was a big bottle of 
champagne vinegar that was reasonable, so i got that. More suitable 
than red wine vinegar, i reasoned.

4.) As for wine, i am an ignoramus. But i found a 2 liter bottle of 
white Chardonnay for $8, so what the hey... I tasted it before using 
it and it was definitely drinkable, not bad even.

EXPERIMENT ONE
enough concentrate to make one quart of juice
1/2 as much water as needed to reconstitute
2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup champagne vinegar
1/4 cup white wine
1 oz cassia sticks - yes i know they taste different than true 
cinnamon, which is much more delicious
1 whole nutmeg, cut in quarters
8 whole cloves

I put them all together in a pan, brought to a simmer and cooked 
until reduced by half. I think i was cooking on too low a fire, so 
for the last, uh, i don't know, maybe 1/2 hour or 45 min, i brought 
the heat up to a faster simmer, but not a rolling boil. I don't own a 
candy thermometer, so i gauged by feel - the liquid was definitely 
thickened, and i measured it until it was reduced to 2 cups. This 
took about two hours. I didn't stand over the pot, just went in and 
stirred every 15 min. or so until near the end, when i checked every 
five minutes or so, then stood there for the last 10 minutes of 
cooking. I removed the spices, but did not strain, as the sauce is 
clear. Then I cooled it, 2 cups worth.

It is the color of cherry amber. It never jelled, not even in the 
fridge - probably pectin was removed in the commercial processing - 
but it is a VERY thick syrup. The flavor is interesting - the wine 
and wine vinegar help cut the sweetness of the juice and sugar and 
add a nice fruity tang. There is a clear flavor of spices, although 
i'd like them stronger, and of apple.

EXPERIMENT TWO
Same ingredients as Experiment One, except i fully reconstituted the 
juice and kept the fire higher during the process. It took only a 
little longer, because i had the heat higher. But even though i 
reduced it by half, it was more liquid than the first batch. It is a 
moderately thick syrup. It seems sweeter than the first, although 
with a slightly stronger spice flavor.

Although this is probably not what the Spanish made and may not be as 
delicious as sauce made from fresh cider, it is very good. I think it 
will be a success.

Well, just 4 more potsful to go. This time i'll have two pots going 
at once in two sessions. Gee, this is easy :-)

Thanks Robin/ Lady Brighid

Anahita