SC - French Bread - a supposedly period recipe (long)

Decker, Terry D. TerryD at Health.State.OK.US
Thu Oct 5 12:58:55 PDT 2000


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Thank you for the original and your comments.
=20
I would point out that the cup measures for the flour is misleading.  =
Two
pints of flour weighs 15 ounces.  Four cups of sifted flour weighs
approximately 16 ounces, while the same of unsifted flour weighs =
upwards of
about 20 ounces.  The six cups in Anne-Marie's recipe probably weighed =
about
30 ounce and required the extra milk to make up for the reduced =
percentages
butter and eggs.
=20
Also, it is the rise that is 80 minutes not the baking.  Then the loaf =
is
flattened into a cake or a tart and baked "almost three-quarters of an =
hour
baking, or at least a great half hour."  Say 35 to 45 minutes, which
suggests a 400 - 425 degree F oven.  The recipe is similar to brioche =
and
some of the dessert breads I've made.
=20
Were I experimenting:
=20
Scald 1/2 cup of milk and melt 1 cup of butter in it.
When the milk has cooled to lukewarm, dissolve 2 teaspoons of dry =
active
yeast in it.
Take 1 lb of flour in a bowl, sift in 1 teaspoon of salt, add the two =
eggs
and stir them into the flour with a fork. =20
Stir the milk into the flour and work the dough into a ball.
Remove the dough to a floured surface and knead.  Add only enough flour =
to
keep the dough from sticking to the surface.
=20
The dough will be very soft and probably oily to the touch.  The =
surface of
the dough should be smooth, but it may not be as elastic as a standard =
bread
dough.
Place the ball of dough in an oiled bowl.  Cover the bowl and allow the
dough to rise.=20
Rising on the counter may take longer than 80 minutes (say 2 hours).  =
Rising
in the oven at 90 degrees F might work, but most thermostats tend to be =
off
and the temperature differential can kill the yeast on the bottom of =
the
bowl while top rises (as one of my co-workers found out).
Spread out the dough in a tart pan.
Garnish it, which can mean just about anything, but I would accept a =
butter
or egg glaze (bread dipped in eggs sounds like it might be an egg =
glaze)
sprinkled with seeds, pieces of wine plumped dried fruit, raisins, etc.
Bake it at 400 degrees F for 40 - 45 minutes, or until done.
=20
If the garnish is a dessert topping, sprinkle the top with finely =
ground
sugar.  Rosewater is a scribal error.
=20
This looks interesting and I may try it after the madness of the
Protectorate Feast is done.=20
=20
Bear
=20

=20
Unfortunately, this is not a period recipe for French bread. As I =
pointed
out to the author prior to publication, the worked out version quoted =
below
has quantities and instructions that are inconsistent with the original =
it
is supposed to be based on. Furthermore, the recipe is from a book =
published
in the mid-17th century (The Perfect Cook , a translation of Le =
Patissier
fran=E7ois, published in London in 1656). Hence even the original is =
not a
period recipe.

Here is what I believe to be the original (I'm getting it from =
something
Anne-Marie sent me prior to the C.A., but it was accompanied by the =
same
worked out version).
- ----
To Make Another Soft Cake or Tart Without Cheese, which cake the =
Flemmings
do call Bread dipped in Eggs.
        Put into a Bason, or upon a Table, two pints of fine flower, =
break
and beat two eggs into it, adde there unto half a pound of fresh butter
which you shall have caused to be melted over the fire, with a quarter =
of a
pint of milk, put also into this mixture a spoonful of good beer yeast =
which
is somewhat thick, and rather more than less, as also salt at =
discretion.
You must mixe and work all these things together with your hands, till =
you
reduce them into a well-knitted paste, and in the kneading of this your
paste you must now and then powder it with a little flower.
    Your paste being thus well powdered will be firm, after which make =
it up
into the form of a Loaf, and placing it upon a sheet of Paper, you much
cover it with a hot Napkin.
    You must also observe to set your said paste neer unto the fire, =
but not
too high, lest that side which should bee too nigh the fire might =
become
hard. You shall leave this said paste in the said indifferent hot place
untill it be sufficiently risen, and it will require at least five =
quarters
of an hours time to rise in and when it shall be sufficieiently risen, =
which
you may know by its splitting, and separating it self, you must make it =
up
into the form of a cake, or tart, which you must garnish over, and then =
put
it into the Oven to bee baked.
        The Ovens hearth must be as hot almost as when you intend to =
bake
indifferent great household Bread. This Tart or Cake will require =
almost
three quarters of an hours baking, or at least a great half hour; and =
when
it is drawn forth of the Oven, you may powder it with some sugar, and
sprinkle it with some rosewater before you do serve it up to the Table,
which depends of your will.
- ----

 Here are the comments I sent prior to the publication of the C.A. =
version.

- ---
French bread: The relative quantities in the recipe do not correspond =
to the
original.

Original:                    Redaction

2 pints=3D4 c flour      6 c flour
2 eggs                        2 eggs
1/2 lb =3D 1 c butter        1 c butter
1/4 pint=3D1/2 c milk           1 3/4 c milk

So the redaction has the same amount of butter as the original, half =
again
as much flour, and more than three times as much milk. That isn't the =
same
recipe. It is also being baked for 80 minutes (unless the author means =
"1/2
hour, then enough longer to make a total of about 50 minutes," which =
isn't
what she says), when the original is for 30-45 minutes. Perhaps making =
the
dough considerably wetter results in its requiring a longer baking time
- ----
As this example suggests, a system of asking people to comment on C.A.
manuscripts in advance, as was done here, only works if the author or =
editor
then makes use of the comments to correct errors in the original.
- --=20
David/Cariadoc
http://www.daviddfriedman.com/


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<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=290125118-05102000>Thank 
you for the original and your comments.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
class=290125118-05102000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=290125118-05102000>I 
would point out that the cup measures for the flour is misleading.  Two 
pints of flour weighs 15 ounces.  Four cups of sifted flour weighs 
approximately 16 ounces, while the same of unsifted flour weighs upwards of 
about 20 ounces.  The six cups in Anne-Marie's recipe probably weighed 
about 30 ounce and required the extra milk to make up for the reduced 
percentages butter and eggs.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
class=290125118-05102000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=290125118-05102000>Also, 
it is the rise that is 80 minutes not the baking.  Then the loaf is 
flattened into a cake or a tart and baked "almost three-quarters of an hour 
baking, or at least a great half hour."  Say 35 to 45 minutes, which 
suggests a 400 - 425 degree F oven.  The recipe is similar to brioche and 
some of the dessert breads I've made.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
class=290125118-05102000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=290125118-05102000>Were I 
experimenting:</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
class=290125118-05102000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=290125118-05102000>Scald 
1/2 cup of milk and melt 1 cup of butter in it.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=290125118-05102000>When 
the milk has cooled to lukewarm, dissolve 2 teaspoons of dry active yeast 
in it.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=290125118-05102000>Take 1 
lb of flour in a bowl, sift in 1 teaspoon of salt, add the two eggs and stir 
them into the flour with a fork.  </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=290125118-05102000>Stir 
the milk into the flour and work the dough into a ball.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=290125118-05102000>Remove 
the dough to a floured surface and knead.  Add only enough flour to keep 
the dough from sticking to the surface.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
class=290125118-05102000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=290125118-05102000>The 
dough will be very soft and probably oily to the touch.  The surface of the 
dough should be smooth, but it may not be as elastic as a standard bread 
dough.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=290125118-05102000>Place 
the ball of dough in an oiled bowl.  Cover the bowl and allow the dough to 
rise. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=290125118-05102000>Rising 
on the counter may take longer than 80 minutes (say 2 hours).  Rising in 
the oven at 90 degrees F might work, but most thermostats tend to be off and the 
temperature differential can kill the yeast on the bottom of the bowl while top 
rises (as one of my co-workers found out).</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=290125118-05102000>Spread 
out the dough in a tart pan.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
class=290125118-05102000>Garnish it, which can mean just about anything, but I 
would accept a butter or egg glaze (bread dipped in eggs sounds like it might be 
an egg glaze) sprinkled with seeds, pieces of wine plumped dried fruit, raisins, 
etc.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=290125118-05102000>Bake 
it at 400 degrees F for 40 - 45 minutes, or until done.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
class=290125118-05102000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=290125118-05102000>If the 
garnish is a dessert topping, sprinkle the top with finely ground sugar.  
Rosewater is a scribal error.</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
class=290125118-05102000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN class=290125118-05102000>This 
looks interesting and I may try it after the madness of the Protectorate Feast 
is done. </SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
class=290125118-05102000></SPAN></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#0000ff face=Arial size=2><SPAN 
class=290125118-05102000>Bear</SPAN></FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE 
style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
  <DIV align=left class=OutlookMessageHeader dir=ltr><FONT face=Tahoma 
  size=2> </DIV></FONT>
  <DIV>Unfortunately, this is not a period recipe for French bread. As I pointed 
  out to the author prior to publication, the worked out version quoted below 
  has quantities and instructions that are inconsistent with the original it is 
  supposed to be based on. Furthermore, the recipe is from a book published in 
  the mid-17th century (<FONT color=#000000><I>The Perfect Cook</I> , a 
  translation of<I> Le Patissier françois</I>, published in London in 
  1656).</FONT> Hence even the original is not a period recipe.</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>Here is what I believe to be the original (I'm getting it from something 
  Anne-Marie sent me prior to the C.A., but it was accompanied by the same 
  worked out version).</DIV>
  <DIV>----</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#000000><I>To Make Another Soft Cake or Tart Without Cheese, 
  which cake the Flemmings do call Bread dipped in 
  Eggs.<BR><X-TAB>        </X-TAB>Put into a 
  Bason, or upon a Table, two pints of fine flower, break and beat two eggs into 
  it, adde there unto half a pound of fresh butter which you shall have caused 
  to be melted over the fire, with a quarter of a pint of milk, put also into 
  this mixture a spoonful of good beer yeast which is somewhat thick, and rather 
  more than less, as also salt at discretion. You must mixe and work all these 
  things together with your hands, till you reduce them into a well-knitted 
  paste, and in the kneading of this your paste you must now and then powder it 
  with a little flower.<BR><X-TAB>    </X-TAB>Your paste being 
  thus well powdered will be firm, after which make it up into the form of a 
  Loaf, and placing it upon a sheet of Paper, you much cover it with a hot 
  Napkin.<BR><X-TAB>    </X-TAB>You must also observe to set your 
  said paste neer unto the fire, but not too high, lest that side which should 
  bee too nigh the fire might become hard. You shall leave this said paste in 
  the said indifferent hot place untill it be sufficiently risen, and it will 
  require at least five quarters of an hours time to rise in and when it shall 
  be sufficieiently risen, which you may know by its splitting, and separating 
  it self, you must make it up into the form of a cake, or tart, which you must 
  garnish over, and then put it into the Oven to bee baked.</I></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#000000><I><X-TAB>        
  </X-TAB>The Ovens hearth must be as hot almost as when you intend to bake 
  indifferent great household Bread. This Tart or Cake will require almost three 
  quarters of an hours baking, or at least a great half hour; and when it is 
  drawn forth of the Oven, you may powder it with some sugar, and sprinkle it 
  with some rosewater before you do serve it up to the Table, which depends of 
  your will.</I></FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>----</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV> Here are the comments I sent prior to the publication of the C.A. 
  version.</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>---</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=#000000>French bread: The relative quantities in the recipe 
  do not correspond to the original.<BR><BR>Original:<X-TAB> 
  </X-TAB>          <SPAN></SPAN>         
  Redaction<BR><BR>2 pints=4 c flour<X-TAB>   </X-TAB>   6 c 
  flour<BR>2 eggs<X-TAB>      
  </X-TAB>          <SPAN></SPAN>        
  2 eggs<BR>1/2 lb = 1 c butter<X-TAB>     
  </X-TAB>   1 c butter<BR>1/4 pint=1/2 c 
  milk<X-TAB>        </X-TAB>   1 
  3/4 c milk<BR><BR>So the redaction has the same amount of butter as the 
  original, half again as much flour, and more than three times as much milk. 
  That isn't the same recipe. It is also being baked for 80 minutes (unless the 
  author means "1/2 hour, then enough longer to make a total of about 50 
  minutes," which isn't what she says), when the original is for 30-45 minutes. 
  Perhaps making the dough considerably wetter results in its requiring a longer 
  baking time</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV>----</DIV>
  <DIV>As this example suggests, a system of asking people to comment on C.A. 
  manuscripts in advance, as was done here, only works if the author or editor 
  then makes use of the comments to correct errors in the original.</DIV>
  <DIV>-- 
<BR>David/Cariadoc<BR>http://www.daviddfriedman.com/</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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