cook's cote (was Re: SC - test- don't read)

[Par Leijonhufvud]

On Wed, 11 Oct 2000, Philip & Susan Troy wrote:

> of my persona's standard dalmatica /coptic shirt and trews, and
> generally cook in the knee-length, belted Greenland gown and hosen. Of
> course, this is when I know I'm cooking. I'll frequently nip into the
> kitchen in much less elaborate garb, or on occasion far more elaborate
> garb, much to the annoyance of friends who've helped me make it. ("What
> the &*&%$# is that on your sleeve trim???"   "Brie.") 

I've used my standard linen tunics and woolen pants, but have -- after
incidents analogous to your brie-enhanced sleeve trim -- started to
consider making a dedicated garment.

> > The jacket would have several advantages (easy to remove, natural double
> > front), while a tunic would be more natural in the material in question.
> > I'm thinking of making a garment with a slightly oversized shoulder
> > section, and bias cut armpit inserts[1]. The idea of a jacket sounds
> > more and more appealing. Any suggestions/advice?
> 
> You might consider a tunic with an unobtrusive double layer in the
> front, basically a rectangular panel running from slightly beyond nipple
> to nipple, neck to knee, with sleeves about six inches too long, after
> including a doubled cuff folded in and up inside it, exceeding sleeve
> length by about seven inches, so when you roll your cuffs up by six
> inches, you'll have a proper length sleeve with at least three layers of
> fabric and no exposed hems or seam allowances.



> As for bias-cut armpit inserts, I think you may be discounting the
> tailoring skills of early-period clothiers. 

I have seen varying opinions as to when the armpit insert came into use,
but I have no recollection of reading about bias cut fabric in Viking
age context. So, a bias cut insert would at worst be somewhat
questionable, and in the best of all worlds perfectly period. According
to your local guru (Þora) both styles existed, but not bias cut
material, in different regions and different times.

> As for any problems with doubling the front fabric, a possible addition
> would be an apron (theoretically held in place with your belt and held
> to the chest with a pin, but there may be a simpler and safer solution).

A special cooks tunic would be a better solution, IMHO.

> The only problem you might run into is a quick-release pin ;  ). I
> assume exploding lugs are out, and early-period tunics aren't known for
> having buttons. 

Cool. I *want* a garment with exploding lugs. 

> Aren't there Northern-European examples of tunics with a
> diagonal keyhole neckline? Ones with a round neck opening, and a slit
> coming from the edge of the neckline at a 45 degree angle? Perhaps if
> you had such a neckline with an exaggerated, long, diagonal slit,
> possibly even sneakily extended straight down along the side seam, you
> might be able to close it with something that could be opened quickly,
> allowing you to pull the entire front panel (at least the part above the
> belt) away from your chest. 

Not that I can recall, but there is the Viborg smock, which might be
adaptable to my needs
(http://www.cs.vassar.edu/~capriest/viktunic.html). Assuming I can
figure out (Þoras drawings :-)

> Add to this a fairly decently full skirt, a
> quick-release belt (one simple buckle, no tying) and you should be okay.

I probably could tie a belt for faster relase than I could buckle it,
but I see your point.

Now I just need to find some CFT to make this in.

/UlfR

- -- 
Par Leijonhufvud                                      parlei at algonet.se
Using VI is kind of like having sex.   The first time to use it, it's kind
of awkward, but after using for a while you start to get good at it and enjoy
it. 
		-- Eric Merkel