cook's cote (was Re: SC - test- don't read)

[Philip & Susan Troy]

Par Leijonhufvud wrote:
> 
> On Tue, 10 Oct 2000, Philip & Susan Troy wrote:
> 
> [description of real chefs coats snipped]
> 
> So a suitable cooks garment should:
> 
> * have a double front
> * have extra long sleeves, normally turned up
> * be easy to remove quickly
> * have plenty of spare in shoulder/armpit area
> 
> Have I missed anything? As to fabric choice linen is pretty much assumed
> in my case. Synthetics are evil (or would a nomex cooks coat be a good
> thing?).

I agree, synthetics are generally anathema, particularly in sweaty
situations. The design features are helpful, but hard to incorporate
into just any garment, and these features are just something modern
designers seem to include. YMMV as to your own needs. I've gone well out
of my persona's standard dalmatica /coptic shirt and trews, and
generally cook in the knee-length, belted Greenland gown and hosen. Of
course, this is when I know I'm cooking. I'll frequently nip into the
kitchen in much less elaborate garb, or on occasion far more elaborate
garb, much to the annoyance of friends who've helped me make it. ("What
the &*&%$# is that on your sleeve trim???"   "Brie.") 
> 
> > I've found these design features translate really well into a white (or
> > rather, unbleached, undyed cotton or linen) cote such as you see in the
> > 14th-15th-century Tacuinum Sanitatis illustrations of various workmen,
> > including cooks. (Have I just answered my own question?) Making one in
> > the form of a Greenland gown looks spiffy, but, I found, isn't as
> > functionally comfortable.
> 
> Not sure what a "del" is (mongol coat, says
> http://members.tripod.com/~whitebard/terms.htm),

Yep, a coat double-breasted/overlapping front coat, frogs or ties for
closure, long sleeves with turned-up cuffs, sometimes with a standing
collar, usually slit sides for equestrian use (doubtless for a quick
getaway when there are problems with the porridge). 

> but for my early (10th
> century) persona there is AFAIK only two possibilities for a cooks
> garment inspired by the chefs coat.
> 
> 1. the short "kimono style" jacket, or
> 2. a tunic.
> 
> The jacket would have several advantages (easy to remove, natural double
> front), while a tunic would be more natural in the material in question.
> I'm thinking of making a garment with a slightly oversized shoulder
> section, and bias cut armpit inserts[1]. The idea of a jacket sounds
> more and more appealing. Any suggestions/advice?

You might consider a tunic with an unobtrusive double layer in the
front, basically a rectangular panel running from slightly beyond nipple
to nipple, neck to knee, with sleeves about six inches too long, after
including a doubled cuff folded in and up inside it, exceeding sleeve
length by about seven inches, so when you roll your cuffs up by six
inches, you'll have a proper length sleeve with at least three layers of
fabric and no exposed hems or seam allowances.

As for bias-cut armpit inserts, I think you may be discounting the
tailoring skills of early-period clothiers. One reasonably
accurate-_looking_ solution would be to simply leave the armpit seam
open, possibly edged with bias tape (this would have been unnecessary in
the days when tunics were woven to shape, not cut). But I'm told square
and circular bias-cut gussets for the armpit are very old indeed. For a
square you'd use an ordinary straight-cut square, and rotate it by 45
degres and insert the resulting diamond/lozenge shape into the open
armpit seam. Same for a circular gusset; you just have to make sure it
ends up being sewn in on a bias so it'll stretch when you raise your
arm. The circular seam itself should help there, too.

As for any problems with doubling the front fabric, a possible addition
would be an apron (theoretically held in place with your belt and held
to the chest with a pin, but there may be a simpler and safer solution).

You can protect your neck with a neckerchief.

The only problem you might run into is a quick-release pin ;  ). I
assume exploding lugs are out, and early-period tunics aren't known for
having buttons. Aren't there Northern-European examples of tunics with a
diagonal keyhole neckline? Ones with a round neck opening, and a slit
coming from the edge of the neckline at a 45 degree angle? Perhaps if
you had such a neckline with an exaggerated, long, diagonal slit,
possibly even sneakily extended straight down along the side seam, you
might be able to close it with something that could be opened quickly,
allowing you to pull the entire front panel (at least the part above the
belt) away from your chest. Add to this a fairly decently full skirt, a
quick-release belt (one simple buckle, no tying) and you should be okay.
   
Adamantius
- -- 
Phil & Susan Troy

troy at asan.com