SC - Moray eels, yet again

[Robin Carroll-Mann]

Someone on rec.food.historic responded to my inquiry with a quote from 
_Mediterranean Seafood_ (I really need to look at that book).  It was:

> Moray eel
> Muraena helena (Linnaeus)
> FAO 67

> REMARKS. Maximum length 150 cm. Of varying colours, but always
> distinctively mottled (e.g. off-white on dark brown). They have a
> dangerous bite and are both cunning and greedy. According to Euziere
> some fishermen believe that the moray likes to live near an octopus, of
> which when other food fails he will eat a tentacle, knowing that it will
> grow again. The skin of the moray can be cured and used, e.g. for
> bookbinding, although this is not done commercially. 

> CUISINE. Opinions vary. Professor Bini, in correspondence, has told 
> me that in his view the flesh of the moray is perhaps the finest of all
> Mediterranean fish. Others would expect to use it only in bouillabaisse.
> The Romans seem to have grilled the moray or boiled it, and Apicius
> gives sauces for both dishes. Avoid the bony tail-end.

This last sentence explains a lot.  I think that this, plus Vincent's 
suggestion that "espinas" refers to fish bones, solves the mystery.  You 
flog the moray so that the bones descend into the tail, which is then 
discarded.  (I don't know if this actually happens, or if it is a folk belief). 
If you want to fool/deceive a friend, give him the tail piece, which will 
look nice and plump, but has very little on it that is edible.

Here's the relevant bit of recipe again:
"Scald the moray eel just like the conger eel; and if it is alive flog it vigorously 
because all the fish bones will descend to the tail, and if you want to deceive 
your companion give him the tail to eat; and then remove the head..."


Lady Brighid ni Chiarain
Settmour Swamp, East (NJ)
mka Robin Carroll-Mann
harper at idt.net