[Sca-cooks] Re: Noodles/Pasta - LONG (Charles Perry)

Philip W. Troy & Susan Troy troy at asan.com
Sun Aug 5 15:28:52 PDT 2001


Sandragood at aol.com wrote:

> "The first recorded Iranian noodle dish is lakhsha.  There are scattered
> references to it in Persian literature, but in the absence of medieval
> Persian cookery books we must go to the tenth-century Arabic compilation
> Kitab al-Tabikh for a recipe.  The instructions call for a stiff dough of
> flour and water, 'rolled out thin with a rolling pin and cut with a knife
> into strips.'"
>
> " A noodle of some description was being made in the Greek-speaking world by
> the year 500 under the name itria, and one wonders whether there is a
> connection between it and lakhsha."
>
> " In Islamic times, at least, itriya referred to a small soup noodle which
> could be made by twisting bits of kneaded dough into shape, rather than
> rolling and cutting, so the Greek pasta may have been a different sort of
> noodle from the start."
>
> "As of the thirteenth century, however, lakhsha had disappeared from Arabic
> cookbooks and there was a new word for noodle, rishta, which is still common
> in Iran, the Arab world and Turkey.  Rishta is the only word for noodle in
> the several thirteenth century Arabic cookbooks and in the poems of the
> fourteenth-century Persian rhymester Bushaq (Abu Eshaq-e Hallaj of Shiraz)."

It's probably worth noting that while rishta may be the only word for
noodle in the 13th-century Arabic sources, it is not the only pasta. Off
the top of my head, I can recall shushbarrak, which is a meat-filled
pasta dish, and then there's another whose name I forget (tutmaj?) which
calls for slices to be cut off a roll of dough, and then struck like a
coin with the thumb. These last seem to be sauced with yogurt and mint,
IIRC, and the shushbarrak are alive and well, and virtually unchanged,
in modern-day North Africa.

Adamantius
--
Phil & Susan Troy

troy at asan.com

"It was so blatant that Roger threw at him.  Clemens gets away with
things that get other people thrown out of games.  As long as they
let him get away with it, it's going  to continue." -- Joe Torre, 9/98



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