[Sca-cooks] Emulsified sauces (was RE: 'Fredo Sauce)

[Vincent Cuenca]

To return to the thread on emulsified sauces, here's one from the Llibre de
Sent Sovi:

Qui Parla con ffarets en altra manera almedroc a porcel qui va en ast ab
muyols d'ous

Si vols ffer almedroc, vós aurets ii o iii grans d'ayls, e aurets fformatge
segons que volrets ffer almedroc; e piquar-ho ets tot bé; e piquats-hi ii o
iii muyols d'ous cuyts en aygua.  E quant sia bé piquat, exetats-ho ab de
bon brou e ab mantegua; e si no avets mantegua, metets-hi un raig d'oli e de
bones espícies.  E ffèts per guissa que tot sia espès, que no ffa a bolir. E
done's ab porcel qui vaya en ast.  E no.deu hom destrempar manant, que
destriés, mas quax piquant sa he là.

(Quick and dirty translation)

Which Speaks of How one can make almedroc in another way with egg yolks that
goes with pork roasted on the spit

	If you wish to make almedroc, take two or three cloves of garlic, and take
cheese according to how you wish to  make almedroc, and mash it all well,
and mash in two or three yolks of eggs cooked in water.  And when it is all
ground, (make?) it with good broth and with lard; and if there is no lard,
add a bit of oil and some good spices.  And it should be prepared so that it
is very thick, for it is not boiled.  And serve it with pork that has been
roasted on the spit. And you should not distemper it by stirring, for you
will destroy it, but rather mash it here and there.

Who here is thinking Provencal aioli? (Show of hands)  The one before this
in "Sent Sovi" calls for pounded garlic, cheese and water. De Nola's
variation calls for heads of roast garlic rather than cloves of raw, and
does not mention using oil instead of lard.  I've made this a couple of
times (I cheated and used a hand blender) and oh lordy was it tasty with
roast pork.  It has a different texture from mayonnaise; it's a bit
grainier, but it emulsifies right up and doesn't break. Also, no threat of
salmonella from raw egg yolks.

The sauce from the ASPARAGUS file is made of bread soaked in vinegar,
onions, cooking water from the asparagus, spices, oil and sugar.  It's not
an emulsion at all.  IIRC, I seem to remember an emulsion sauce from
Adamantius' "Carbonadoes" article.  He'd adapted it from a sauce for fish, I
think…

Vicente


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