[Sca-cooks] Quinces in 14th century France
Phil Troy/ G. Tacitus Adamantius
adamantius at verizon.net
Wed Dec 17 16:08:22 PST 2003
Also sprach Colleen McDonald:
>Hi everyone,
>
>I'm currently researching the use of quinces and quince paste in
>14th century France.
>
>I've found the recipe for Cotignac/Coindignac in Le Menagier, but I
>did not find any for quinces in the Viandier of Taillevent (Scully).
>I haven't come across anything else that mentions/describes quince
>paste during this period, but I want to make sure that I haven't
>missed some *obvious* source that I'm not aware of yet.
>
>Any other 14th century quince pastes (or quince recipes) out that
>that I should be looking for?
Well, looking at the notes in the index/glossary of Curye On
Inglysch, it refers to a roughly contemporary recipe in another
source, for chared conys (presumably once char de conys), which seems
to be similar to char de warden, except it is more a preservable
version made with honey and reduced to thicken, rather than thickened
with eggs as in some versions of applemoy. Phew.
I think there's also a reference in The Florilegium.
I haven't checked, but I vaguely remember there being a cotignac
recipe in Chiquart's Du Fait de Cuisine.
As for one possible reason why there might be a recipe for it in Le
Menagier, but not in Taillevent, Taillevent does seem to dismiss the
processes that are [according to him] obviously the job of the
housewife. He also has no joutes recipe, for example, because "every
housewife knows how to make them." I suspect Taillevent would have
bought his ready-made.
Adamantius
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